145* Thermostat Installed - PICS - Week 1 Thoughts - Nissan Titan XD Forum
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post #1 of 52 Old 02-11-2019, 08:17 AM Thread Starter
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145* Trans Thermostat Installed - PICS - Week 1 Thoughts

All of the info on this issue, from why some of us feel its warranted do why some of us feel it is not can be found here: https://www.titanxdforum.com/forum/4...-research.html
If you want to argue reasoning or debate the effectiveness, please do so in that thread. This thread is for my installation, and hopefully to help someone do theirs, and a place for me to report my findings and results.

Well, I got the thermostat installed last night. All in all including gathering parts it took me about 20 minutes. Results were instant and it's only getting better. I'll update on all of that later.

Tstat here (you'll need 3/8" hose barb fittings added): http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-th...tat-p-423.html

Tools:
Hose pinch pliers - two sets will work, I own 4 pairs so I used all 4. All in all I lost about 1/3 of a cup of fluid I'd imagine.
Hose cutting tool - I used some cutting pliers, a razor knife will work
1" wrench for fittings on the thermostat
Whatever tools you need to use the clamps you decide to use

Supplies:
Rags of some sort
4x - hose clamps. Note in the pictures I tried 5/8" spring clamps...they were not large enough when slipped over the hose barb. 3/4 should work. I used stainless worm gear clamps I had on hand.
Zip Ties - I use large heavy gauge ones
Beer

In my IMGUR link, there's a diagram of which hose is which. It's fairly simple, if you follow the two lines from the trans, one of them goes into the radiator/cooler at the bottom pretty quickly, and one goes UP the radiator as a hard line and then snakes around. The one that goes into the bottom of the radiator is the FROM TRANS line to the cooler. The other line of course is return to the trans.

1. Clamp hoses
2. Cut hose - can cut out a couple of inches if you want or not, it will work with the slack and not kink.
3. Slip clamps on hose
4. Install hose on barbs - note it's very hard to get them on, but they will go. Hard steady pressure works well.
5. Slide clamp up onto hose and tighten

Repeat this process until all 4 hoses are connected to tstat.

Mounting is going to have a lot of options. The thermostat comes with some small mounting brackets that can be used a bunch of different ways. For right now I chose to zip tie it to the hard coolant pipe coming out of the bottom front of the block. One zip tie is also on the rubber hose. Ideally, adding some runs of hose to move the thermostat to a solid mounting location would be best, and I may do that in the future.

I installed last night and ran around the neighborhood to check for leaks and had none. This morning my 20 minute ride to work consisted of 5 minutes at 20MPH and 6 speed humps leaving my neighborhood, 5 minutes of stop and go traffic to the interstate 5 minutes at 70MPH on the intestate, then 5 minutes to the shop. In that time in 55* ambient temps, the trans got up to 142 degrees.

I left for lunch today at 11 and ambient temps were 78*. Truck got up to temp quickly, and stayed between 145 and 170* the entire trip, and it performed like it should. I had one small shift flair merging on the interstate going from 2-3 gear. I am absolutely impressed already, and will continue to report back.

By the way, trans temp and TC temp stayed within 5 degrees of each other the whole time I've been monitoring.

Please check out the pictures at the link below, and ask any questions you may have.

https://imgur.com/a/KVNlV91

Last edited by leadenwahboy; 02-11-2019 at 12:30 PM.
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post #2 of 52 Old 02-11-2019, 08:26 AM Thread Starter
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After 1 week of driving with this thermostat installed, I have nothing but good things to say.

Daily driving it really shines. My ride to work is about 8 minutes and by the time I get to work the trans is up past 125. When I jump back in the truck to go work or whatever, it's very quickly up to 150. I towed a 10k pound load from Charleston to Conway about 120 miles on Friday in 75 heat and she performed flawlessly. Running HPP on setting 2 with tow mode on, trans got to 175 in traffic in the morning, and as soon as I got on the highway it leveled off to 158 and never budged until I arrived on the jobsite.

Jobsite was a dirt road leading to a dirt parking lot full of materials and telehandler forklift tracks rutting it up. I had to lock her down in 4H and drag the lowboy trailer through the dirt a little ways but she handled it perfectly. During that, trans got up to 188. Unloaded my trailer and hit the road it cooled back to 158 in about 5 miles.

Overall, it's very easy for me to see that the trans needs to be hot. In the morning before it reaches 130 it does have the tendency to want to flare at the shift, but it's predictable and you can avoid it. Once the trans is warm to 130 at least, it shifts beautifully.

It's safe to say one thing; whether it's better due to the trans fluid being warm, or due to the trans "learning," it's incredibly better. It is literally a different truck and I couldn't be happier with the results.
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post #3 of 52 Old 02-11-2019, 09:18 AM
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I just finished installing my thermostat, but I did my connections differently. I connected the input to the thermostat after the radiator heat exchanger and before the cooler. The output from the heat exchanger is the line on the back top of the radiator on the passenger side. That line goes to the cooler. The thermostat I used in the 180 degree one from amazon. My results this morning on my 32 mile commute to work were very impressive. First the transmission quickly warmed up to 150 degrees. It then held steady at 159 degrees during my commute to work. Shifting was very smooth. Prior to installing the thermostat, it would barely even be above 115 degrees. The outside temp this morning was 41 degrees.

Why are you guys tapping the line pre heat exchanger? I think after really helps the trans get to temp faster because the engine coolant is heating the trans oil in the exchanger.
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Last edited by Betawave; 02-11-2019 at 04:22 PM.
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post #4 of 52 Old 02-11-2019, 09:20 AM
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And I forgot to mention. The transmission temp gauge was at one tick off the half way mark at 160 degrees. All my temp measurements are via Ezlynk.
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post #5 of 52 Old 02-11-2019, 09:23 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Betawave View Post
I just finished installing my thermostat, but I did my connections differently. I connected the input to the thermostat after the radiator heat exchanger and before the cooler. The output from the heat exchanger is the line on the back top of the radiator on the passenger side. That line goes to the cooler. The thermostat I used in the 180 degree one from amazon. My results this morning on my 32 mile commute to work were very impressive. First the transmission quickly warmed up to 150 degrees. It then held steady at 159 degrees during my commute to work. Shifting was very smooth. Prior to installing the thermostat, it would barely even be above 115 degrees. The outside temp this morning was 41 degrees.

Why are you guts tapping the line pre heat exchanger? I think after really helps the trans get to temp faster because the engine coolant is heating the trans oil in the exchanger.
WHY?

Never even thought of doing it that way. Got any pics of where you located the thermostat to do it that way?

Please add your thoughts and pics to the other thread listed at beginning of my post also.
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post #6 of 52 Old 02-11-2019, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by leadenwahboy View Post
WHY?

Never even thought of doing it that way. Got any pics of where you located the thermostat to do it that way?

Please add your thoughts and pics to the other thread listed at beginning of my post also.
I attached a pic of it mounted on the side of the radiator fan housing. I simply drilled a hole and attached using the included self tapping screw. I used the Derale 13011 Fluid Control Thermostat Kit from amazon. Can't post the link due to my post count.

I thought of tapping after the radiator because I noticed that during extended idle times the transmission temp would rise to 145 degrees, but would drop like a rock the moment I started driving all the way down to 115 degress. I think the heat exchanger is giving most of heat to fluid.

After more driving today at lunch, I can say for sure that this holds the transmission temp to 159 degree very stably and warms up very fast. By the time the engine is to temp, the trans is at 159.
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Last edited by Betawave; 02-11-2019 at 03:39 PM.
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post #7 of 52 Old 02-11-2019, 05:48 PM
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[QUOTE=Betawave;515013]I attached a pic of it mounted on the side of the radiator fan housing. I simply drilled a hole and attached using the included self tapping screw. I used the Derale 13011 Fluid Control Thermostat Kit from amazon.


that looks like a steal at $50 or so. what size fittings/barbs did you use?
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post #8 of 52 Old 02-12-2019, 01:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Betawave View Post
I attached a pic of it mounted on the side of the radiator fan housing. I simply drilled a hole and attached using the included self tapping screw. I used the Derale 13011 Fluid Control Thermostat Kit from amazon. Can't post the link due to my post count.

I thought of tapping after the radiator because I noticed that during extended idle times the transmission temp would rise to 145 degrees, but would drop like a rock the moment I started driving all the way down to 115 degress. I think the heat exchanger is giving most of heat to fluid.

After more driving today at lunch, I can say for sure that this holds the transmission temp to 159 degree very stably and warms up very fast. By the time the engine is to temp, the trans is at 159.

Not rain on your good idea but I would watch out for those Derale thermostats as they have failed in the past. I had one fail on me on a remote oil filter and oil cooler setup for a 370Z. They are cheap for a reason. I'll never use that brand again.

The second question I have for you is how sure are you about the radiator AT cooler fittings flow? I checked the FSM and the top fitting is from the transmission to the radiator and the middle one is the that flows to the cooler. Makes sense as the bottom or middle part of the rad would be hotter. After the cooler, the AT fluid flow is back to the transmission.

I would hate to see you damage your transmission from improper oil flows or bake transmission oil caught in the radiator with no flow.

Like I said, I like your idea and will probably do it but I will make oil lines from the rad to thermostat and back with some oil fittings as I've never been a fan of hose clamps on cut aluminum lines.

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post #9 of 52 Old 02-12-2019, 02:02 PM
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Not rain on your good idea but I would watch out for those Derale thermostats as they have failed in the past. I had one fail on me on a remote oil filter and oil cooler setup for a 370Z. They are cheap for a reason. I'll never use that brand again.

The second question I have for you is how sure are you about the radiator AT cooler fittings flow? I checked the FSM and the top fitting is from the transmission to the radiator and the middle one is the that flows to the cooler. Makes sense as the bottom or middle part of the rad would be hotter. After the cooler, the AT fluid flow is back to the transmission.

I would hate to see you damage your transmission from improper oil flows or bake transmission oil caught in the radiator with no flow.

Like I said, I like your idea and will probably do it but I will make oil lines from the rad to thermostat and back with some oil fittings as I've never been a fan of hose clamps on cut aluminum lines.
I am very confident of the flow. The fluid comes from the trans to the bottom passenger side of the radiator, out the top, then to the cooler, then back to trans.

The temp seems very stable within +/-5 degrees of 160 degrees, but I do think in the summer if towing it would probably max at slightly below 200, which is a safe temp. I think this is because the radiator heats the oil in excess of 180 which opens the flow to the cooler, the cooler then cools the temp enough to maintain 160 degrees with ambient temps in the 50's. 160 degrees is one tick below half way on the gauge. The fluid is being heated by coolant that is slightly above 200 degrees if at normal operating temp.

Clamping the hoses on the metal hoses is less than idea and will leak if the clamps are not super tight. I agree there could be a better solution, but I did it with what I had on hand, and they haven't leaked so far. I am interested to see how you improve the line routing.
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post #10 of 52 Old 02-13-2019, 11:51 AM
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clamps

If you go to NAPA and ask for fuel injection hose clamps, I think it is about a size 10? Just take your hose with you and size it properly. These are the clamps that have a 10mm bolt head you tighten in the middle of the clamp and it spreads out the load on the hose. I used them on the transmission cooler I put on my 04 Titan and had no trouble leaking.
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