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Discussion Starter #1
What's the max AMPS?
The AC 120-volt outlets on XD are for devices up to 400-watt. There are 2 operating modes for the Inverter system:
1. High power mode for devices between 150-watt and 400-watt which can only be used when the vehicle is in Park (P)
with the engine running.
2. Low power mode for devices less than 150-watt which can be used anytime the ignition is in the ON position.
CAUTION:
Operation of the 120-volt system with the ignition in the ON position and the engine not running
(idle) will drain the battery charge. This could lead to a dead battery or no start condition.
Do not exceed maximum capacity or use adapters to connect more than one electrical accessory.
NOTE:
Replacement of the OEM inverter with anything other than a Genuine NISSAN specified part is not
authorized.
 

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To get amps when rated watts and operating voltage are known, divide watts by operating voltage. In this case, it's as Imadogman reports. Most all inverters can withstand a surge of 2 or 3 times their wattage rating to start certain gear.

One consideration for the inverter is whether it is a pure sine wave (PSW) or modified sine wave (MSW). PSW inverters are more efficient and the preferred inverter type for sensitive electronics. MSW inverters are considered "dirty" power and might work for laptop type AC adapters, but will likely generate more heat and have a tendency to buzz a bit. For a TV, you might see some lines running through the video. Until I can get an oscilloscope hooked up to it or find some information on the inverter itself to show what type it it is, am going to assume it's an MSW as they are much cheaper than a PSW.

I use a PSW in the old truck to operate my travel trailer's fridge while under way to conserve propane. At 1.25 amps @ 120v, that's only 150 watts. Sometimes the electronic control boards in these fridges don't like dirty power and can be damaged. If the Titan inverter is MSW, it will eventually be replaced with a PSW.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
To get amps when rated watts and operating voltage are known, divide watts by operating voltage. In this case, it's as Imadogman reports. Most all inverters can withstand a surge of 2 or 3 times their wattage rating to start certain gear.

One consideration for the inverter is whether it is a pure sine wave (PSW) or modified sine wave (MSW). PSW inverters are more efficient and the preferred inverter type for sensitive electronics. MSW inverters are considered "dirty" power and might work for laptop type AC adapters, but will likely generate more heat and have a tendency to buzz a bit. For a TV, you might see some lines running through the video. Until I can get an oscilloscope hooked up to it or find some information on the inverter itself to show what type it it is, am going to assume it's an MSW as they are much cheaper than a PSW.

I use a PSW in the old truck to operate my travel trailer's fridge while under way to conserve propane. At 1.25 amps @ 120v, that's only 150 watts. Sometimes the electronic control boards in these fridges don't like dirty power and can be damaged. If the Titan inverter is MSW, it will eventually be replaced with a PSW.
How do you find out what is it? MSW or PSW?
 

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Just ran a test to determine inverter type. Am 99.9% sure it is Modified Sine Wave (MSW). As stated earlier, this is considered "dirty" power. It will power a laptop AC adapter for one of my computers and it buzzes while doing so. Switching to a Samlex Pure Sine Wave (PSW) inverter or house power operates the adapter with no buzzing.

One other way to fine out would be to find somebody with an oscilloscope to look at the waveform. A dirty waveform will be very noisy and seem to make no sense vs a clear waveform that alternates smoothly as in house power.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks mytpro4x, I have a travel trailer too and was thinking to run the fridge on electric only but you said it might damage it. What about power tools and their chargers?
 

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Have run 120v power tools for many years with an MSW inverter with no problems. Also ran my laptop adapters, RV fridge, household chest freezers, tube type TV sets, cement mixers, even ovens and RV air conditioners before PSWs appeared on the market. Occasionally I would get some diagonal striping on the tube type TV set. Haven't tried a solid state TV on an MSW yet. Will do that later.

Laptop adapters, battery chargers for power tools, and the like have a tendency to run warmer so you might want to keep an eye on them, especially if charging/operating outdoors in direct sun. They also run less efficiently. Just be aware of them getting too hot. Some sensitive electronics might have a problem, but haven't run into any of that yet.

The RV fridge control board (detects the presence of 120 VAC) crapped out after many years, but can't specifically fault the MSW inverter. A fridge board costs about $100 if you get the Dinosaur brand. You might want to look up a replacement part # just in case to be prepared.

Meantime I am going to run my current RV fridge off the Titan and if AC operation ceases, will just fix it and install a PSW. I don't expect any serious issues for the other gear.
 
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TexasPRO4X, be sure to check your RV fridge AC amp rating and rated voltage often found on the inside of the fridge. Multiply those 2 figures and verify that it doesn't exceed the 400 watt rating of the Titan's inverter.

Also, I checked the label on the cover for the receptacle in the rear passenger area and it looked like 400 watts were available at idle and 150 while under way. The inverter control switch had to be operated to get 400 watts (when I do that, both the 150 and 400 LEDs light up!, so I don't know what I have yet!). Have to look at the manual to see if there is a 150 watt limit while under way.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
According to the manual, there are 2 operating modes for the Inverter system in XD:
1. High power mode for devices between 150-watt and 400-watt which can only be used when the vehicle is in Park (P)
with the engine running.
2. Low power mode for devices less than 150-watt which can be used anytime the ignition is in the ON position
 

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According to the manual, there are 2 operating modes for the Inverter system in XD:
1. High power mode for devices between 150-watt and 400-watt which can only be used when the vehicle is in Park (P)
with the engine running.
2. Low power mode for devices less than 150-watt which can be used anytime the ignition is in the ON position
Correct and there is a nice chart on p 2-69 that provides a quick reference. There is also a caution on p 2-67 against using the power outlets when the air conditioner, headlights, or rear window defroster are operating. That is probably to limit the load on the alternator.

To run the fridge, headlights, air conditioner, etc. while charging an auxilliary battery bank on my old truck, I upgraded the alternator and wiring to handle the load. In addition, I had and additional 270 watts of solar panels on the camper shell's roof.

Unfortunately, the 150 watt limit alone while under way means that we will not be able to operate our RV fridges on the XD's built in 120v system. Some analysis of the electrical system would be in order to see if a separate inverter (and preferably PSW) could be installed for that purpose.

So, the next step would be to see what the amp rating on the alternator is and determine the demand on the electrical system with all that stuff running. At the same time we don't want to run into any warranty issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Correct and there is a nice chart on p 2-69 that provides a quick reference. There is also a caution on p 2-67 against using the power outlets when the air conditioner, headlights, or rear window defroster are operating. That is probably to limit the load on the alternator.

To run the fridge, headlights, air conditioner, etc. while charging an auxilliary battery bank on my old truck, I upgraded the alternator and wiring to handle the load. In addition, I had and additional 270 watts of solar panels on the camper shell's roof.

Unfortunately, the 150 watt limit alone while under way means that we will not be able to operate our RV fridges on the XD's built in 120v system. Some analysis of the electrical system would be in order to see if a separate inverter (and preferably PSW) could be installed for that purpose.

So, the next step would be to see what the amp rating on the alternator is and determine the demand on the electrical system with all that stuff running. At the same time we don't want to run into any warranty issues.
Yep, Warranty is important.
 

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Yep, Warranty is important.
There is also an issue of where to connect the auxiliary inverter. Generally speaking, the connection would be made directly to the battery with the proper gauge wiring and fuse. But in the XD's case, I read somewhere that adding electrical connections directly to the battery can upset the vehicle's ability to sense battery voltage. (I think I ran across that tidbit when somebody installed an additional electrical device maybe a camera?, tailgate actuator?). Can't remember exactly, but am sure it's on this site somewhere. Anyway, that might limit where the connection can be made.

Another consideration for the alternator load is that my smaller 1.2 AC amp RV fridge running off an inverter results in a draw on the alternator of ~12 amps DC. For a larger RV fridge with an AC demand of 2.5 amps, that would draw an additional ~25 amps. So, would have to be sure the XD's alternator would be up to the task. I believe I read somewhere the XD's alternator was rated at 180 amps. Am running a 180 amp alternator (up from 110) on my Powerstroke.

Anyway, looks like the 120v power outlets on the XD are limited at best. I'm not likely to run the truck in P just to get 400 watts from the alternator. So, it's going to have to be the fridge on propane for now and there is going to be another solution to this dilemma down the road.
 

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I'm kind of interested in finding out about adding additional devices directly to the battery.... I already ran #6 stranded wire right from my drivers side battery to my truck camper...with a winch quick disconnect right at the camper. That way I charge my two deep cycle batteries in the camper while I'm running down the highway to a campsite. I haven't see any warning lights or abnormal electrical issues so far. If there is a restriction on adding wiring right to the battery, i'd like to hear about that!
 
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I'm kind of interested in finding out about adding additional devices directly to the battery.... I already ran #6 stranded wire right from my drivers side battery to my truck camper...with a winch quick disconnect right at the camper. That way I charge my two deep cycle batteries in the camper while I'm running down the highway to a campsite. I haven't see any warning lights or abnormal electrical issues so far. If there is a restriction on adding wiring right to the battery, i'd like to hear about that!
I don't know there is a restriction per se, just perhaps a consideration that is likely worth vetting. I don't believe there were warning lights or alarm bells going off, either! Can't remember what the symptom was that caused the issue to be flagged, either. The consideration would be the one I mentioned earlier that there might have been an issue with correct battery voltage being sensed. So, from what I understand, the solution is to connect to the sensing side and not directly to the battery. If I find that post here again, will post where to find it. Sorry I can't do any better than that for now!
 

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Ahhh--- it's starting to come back to me. I believe the post had to do with connecting both + and - of the device directly to the battery. The (-) needs to be connected to chassis ground and not at the battery. Connecting directly across the battery is what bypasses the sensing circuitry. So, the (+) to the battery was OK. By the way, those batteries are in parallel. Still looking for that post.
 

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Hope you find it....

The next time I'm hauling my camper, I'm going to check and see if there is any difference in the meter on the truck.....
 

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The next time I'm hauling my camper, I'm going to check and see if there is any difference in the meter on the truck.....
Since I didn't turn up anything while searching in this forum, I am going to assume it was somewhere else while in pursuit of an answer to another Titan XD topic.

I would think the simple way to avoid any issue at all is for any accessory being installed that will operate off of the vehicle's electrical system, unless for some reason installation instructions specifically advise against it, is to ensure that the (-) side of the accessory being installed is connected directly to chassis ground (which is what most if not all of us would be inclined to do anyway) instead of the battery negative . That will ensure that a sensing circuit (that is also referenced to chassis ground) will see all loads in the electrical system and be able to boost alternator ouput accordingly. This would be especially important for a high amp accessory such as an inverter or an aux battery that will be kept topped up by the alternator.

In the case of the inverter, which got this discussion started, connecting both (-) and (+) inverter supp leads across the battery (which is easy to do) to supply a 1.2 amp AC refrigerator will result in a 12 amp DC load on the battery that the alternator might not “see” and be able to fully compensate for. That's about as far as I can advance the discussion.
 

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Continuing to do some more work on this. Found that the inverter will run the small fridge on a Casita travel trailer. Am running a separate cord from the fridge to the truck's inverter to bypass the converter in the trailer. Calculations for watts based on the operating voltage and current draw for the fridge seemed to point to it being worth a try. All plugged in an ready to go, starting the vehicle in P and pushing the inverter button illuminates both the 150 and 400 watt LEDs. Moving the shift lever to D cuts out the 400 watt LED and the 150 watt stays illuminated and the fridge continues to operate. Will do some measurements later. The only other issue might become how the dirty power affects the AC control board for the fridge. I thought I heard a ventilation fan for the inverter start running near the bed receptacle.
 

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I went to go rescue my nephew on a cold winter night. His Civic wouldn't start after he got off of working at the burger joint. I powered an LED work light from the outlet in my truck bed. However it won't run the battery charger. It had enough power to get a reading of volts on the battery charger. But it wouldn't power the charger enough to charge it Civic's battery.
 

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I went to go rescue my nephew on a cold winter night. His Civic wouldn't start after he got off of working at the burger joint. I powered an LED work light from the outlet in my truck bed. However it won't run the battery charger. It had enough power to get a reading of volts on the battery charger. But it wouldn't power the charger enough to charge it Civic's battery.
The one in the truck bed is the 150 watt outlet right? Did you try the outlet in the truck console? That one is 400 watts isn't it? Or do i have that backwards?????
 
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