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Any of you doing the early oil changes having any of them analyzed by Blackstone? I’d be curious to know what the findings are? Personally I don’t think it’s the oil type or brand. If it’s due to lubrication I’d think it would be from lack of oil or poor oiling. Who knows?
I had oil analysis done before when it had been in 8k and they said it would have been good for 2k more. I always run 10w30 synthetic blend. Trucks at 64k now.
 

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Just like the OP, mine broke as well. However, mine was "not stock". It was not "deleted", either. The engine was "enhanced" to work better. :)

There was several things came to my mind now that I think about it. I changed from 10W-30 (Rotella T5-Synthetic Blend) to 5W-40 (T6-Full Synthetic) just 5 days before it broke. However, it have had symptoms of indication days, if not weeks/months, before the break-down. In my mind (aftermath thoughts), could the 5w-40 do any damage to the engine as 5w-40 is for the extreme cold climate? This T6 oil was changed during the hot weather in the Texas summer. I have another set of oil of T6 sitting in the garage and I'll change to this T6 for the winter when the new engine hits 5K miles. And right when the winter is over, which I think it'll be another 5K miles, I'll change again, but back to 10W30 Full Synthetic.

Dealer found it was "lack of lubrication, putting all 8 bearings to blue." Hence no warranty was granted. I changed dealer and fought a little. Warranty decision was issued and the long block was replaced on mine. I asked them what batch/year this new long block was and the tech said it was not a new 2019 batch nor the earlier batch (2017). He said it could be between 2018 and 2019. Which did not tell me much and I'm hoping it was not in the bad batch that the broken one was in (just guessing).

I have never done oil analysis before but will do it this time when changing oil. I'm curious what the numbers are like.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Just like the OP, mine broke as well. However, mine was "not stock". It was not "deleted", either. The engine was "enhanced" to work better. :)

There was several things came to my mind now that I think about it. I changed from 10W-30 (Rotella T5-Synthetic Blend) to 5W-40 (T6-Full Synthetic) just 5 days before it broke. However, it have had symptoms of indication days, if not weeks/months, before the break-down. In my mind (aftermath thoughts), could the 5w-40 do any damage to the engine as 5w-40 is for the extreme cold climate. This T6 oil was changed during the hot weather in the Texas summer. I have another set of oil of T6 sitting in the garage and I'll change to this T6 for the winter when the new engine hits 5K miles. And right when the winter is over, which I think it'll be another 5K miles, I'll change again, but back to 10W30 Full Synthetic.

Dealer found it was "lack of lubrication, putting all 8 bearings to blue." Hence no warranty was granted. I changed dealer and fought a little. Warranty decision was issued and the long block was replaced on mine. I asked them what batch/year this new long block was and the tech said it was not a new 2019 batch nor the earlier batch (2017). He said it could be between 2018 and 2019. Which did not tell me much and I'm hoping it was not in the bad batch that the broken one was in (just guessing).

I have never done oil analysis before but will do it this time when changing oil. I'm curious what the numbers are like.
Curious how many miles you had when the crank broke?
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Been one week since the crank broke. Word I have is they have a long block being shipped and expect it to arrive at the dealership by the end of the week. If that happens they will start on my swap next Monday.
 

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On bright side least they are breaking while still under warranty. Would really suck to break just outside 100k and be told sorry not covered. Even though known issue. If it were me don't think I would keep it very long, unless Nissan/Cumming extends the coverage to 200k. Specifically related to broken cranks. Similar to how gm finally did with the dmax(lb7) injector, fuel rail cracking issues.
Doubt they will do the right thing though.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Yeah slash I owned a 2002 Duramax and it was covered under the extended warranty for injectors and they did finally fail so that extension in coverage was a good deal for me. When I sold the Duramax in 2014 it had 230k miles and was running great.

We’ll just have to see how the long block swap goes. I’m hoping to get the truck back by the end of next week but that’s my wishful thinking. I would think they could complete a longblock swap in 5 days???
 

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Yeah slash I owned a 2002 Duramax and it was covered under the extended warranty for injectors and they did finally fail so that extension in coverage was a good deal for me. When I sold the Duramax in 2014 it had 230k miles and was running great.

We’ll just have to see how the long block swap goes. I’m hoping to get the truck back by the end of next week but that’s my wishful thinking. I would think they could complete a longblock swap in 5 days???
They took a week and a half on mine.

When they say they finished with yours. Check for the cable as the big RED circle in pic "Engine 3". This cable was supposed to route as the green shows. This created a lot of tension to the cable and could break upon vibration. Also those smaller RED circles, the cable bundle was supposed to be held down by those inserts, which since he routed the cable wrong, all those inserts were offset and hence, the cable did not get held down.
In picture "Engine 1", the cable was to be routed as the GREEN lines, but was routed as the RED lines shown. This one, I had to re-route myself.
Also, look for the front diff vent tube if it was mounted correctly. Mine was just hanging loose.

One more thing: ask to have the transmission re-learn process done since this is new engine - old transmission. Change the transmission oil if possible.
 

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I'm thinking of buying another XD with the Cummins, before they are all gone.
Then I see a thread like this, it would worry me less if the problem was pinpointed and addressed.

If you're changing oil at 5K instead of 10K you're spending a lot just in oil.
My gas Toyotas are 10K oil change and have not problems.

I do think that the 30W oil seems to be to light for this engine. Add in the extra heat from the emissions equipment and this could be killing these.

Wondering if a deleted truck running 40W would fare much better and wish there was more effort from Cummins and Nissan to get this sorted out.
The warranty on this truck would be 5 years/200K miles.

$50K + is a big gamble on something like this.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Got an update from my service advisor on Friday (the day they were hoping to have the truck ready) and they were in the process of installing the new long block. Was informed several needed parts were not received but they were expecting to receive them on Tuesday of this week. Didn’t give me any new estimate on when it would be ready. I plan to ease by their shop tomorrow just to get a little face time with the guys.
 

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I use Mobil 1 on my other cars. I was surprised that Cummins says only to use Valvoline with a certain spec number.. I use the synthetic Valvoline Because Cummins says so mostly. They have the Blend listed but with a 10,000 mile oil change I put in a little extra protection..( I hope)
 

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@texomakid, how goes it? My old engine didn't come with the coolant heater. However, when the long block got replaced, the new engine has the coolant heater. Check if your has it too. I just bought the cable from Amazon and there it goes. Check out the picture. I forgot to take a picture of the heater plug at the bottom of the truck, but shown here in the pic when they were putting the new engine in.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Got the grey goose back this afternoon. 3 weeks & 2 days from the the day the crank broke. Tow, long block, & loaner no cost. Service advisor said drive it! Ready to roll & tow. No break in required. They fired it off this morning and they took it on an extended run. Gave it a bath and had it sitting out front when I got there. I’ve put about 160 miles on it since I got it. Seems to be running good so far.
Time will tell. I don’t abuse my truck but it’s not babied either.

Here we go!
 

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That's awesome. However, my service advisor told me to proceed with proper break-in as it was new. Oh well, since then, I've put on 5500 miles, none was tow.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Yeah I figured they would advise a break just to CYA but in reality motors today are all built with roller everything so break-in is not as critical as it was say 30 or 40 years ago. I specifically asked was I good to tow and he say yes.

Reality I’m leaving for a business trip on Sunday and I don’t plan to pull or haul any loads until I get back. That should put over 1500 miles on the new long block. After that, it’s ON! Lol
 

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As promised, here is the comparison between the 1st and 2nd oil changes on my oil burner. I opted for 5k oil changes as I do a lot of short trips and it's my daily. I plan on pulling a sample every change for as long as I own the truck. I just admit, the numbers do look a lot better than I expected.


Stay frosty
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Those oil analysis can be so helpful. I did about 6 when I owned the 2002 Chevy 2500 Duramax and it really opened my eyes how I looked at today’s oil and oil change intervals. That’s when I started extending oil change intervals.

The broken cranks are concerning but it’s my opinion they are failing due to faulty material and not to lubrication. After a lifetime of changing oil at 3000 miles, then 5000 miles, I now just change oil as recommended by the manufacturer or by the OLM that’s installed in the vehicle. So far that is working on all my vehicles.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
I pulled over a Rick of firewood in my 6 x 10 dump trailer. That’s not a very heavy load but a load. Of course no issues but I’m still impressed with the torque this 5.0 motor has. For the displacement it’s a strong motor. That’s about 1500 miles since the new long block was installed. Running like a new engine
 
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