Nissan Titan XD Forum banner

1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered User
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Thought I would share my experience doing a brake fluid flush today on my 2017 XD. I just got the truck a few weeks ago, it had 46k on it, so I am going through and changing all the fluids/filters. I did have a bit of service history, I know it had oil changes every 5-10k based on carfax, but everything else is unknown...

Sorry I was trying to knock this out in a timely manner, didn't get any pictures.

So brake fluid, it didn't look that bad in the reservoir, thought I'd be wasting my time, but what came out from the calipers was quite a nasty brown, looked like coffee with a bit a debris in the bottom of my jug, so I am glad I did this.

Difficulty, if you can jack up the truck and remove the tires/wheels you can do this. You will need a decent floor jack and at least 2 jack stands, probably 4. I lived dangerously and used two jack stands up front, and my large jack to lift the rear axle and left it. I wasn't going to go under the truck at all, and only had the rear wheels off one at a time, use caution.

Supplies: Turkey Baster, 64oz of DOT 3 Brake Fluid, some clear rubber tubing that will fit on the bleeder valve, I believe it was 3/16 something clear and flexible, that will slightly stretch over the bleeder valve, a container such as a 20oz soda bottle, cleaned and dried, maybe even a two liter bottle since we are flushing out all the old crap.

Step 1. Jack up the truck, remove the wheels.

Step 2. Clean/wipe off the brake fluid Reservoir and cap, we do not want to add any debris, dirt, ect.

Step 3. Use the Turkey Baster to suck out as much old brake fluid from the reservoir as you can. Due to the fill design you will only be able to get it down about half way with the turkey baster, still above the "Min" line. If you stole the turkey baster from the kitchen, toss it, or keep it in the garage as a tool. Don't be a jerk and put it back for the wife to use next November.

Step 4. The Nissan Service Manual states to bleed the brakes in the following order, so I followed, Front Right, Front Left, Rear Right, Rear Left. Now, if you look up this procedure it will say for most vehicles, start in the back, furthest from the reservoir, Nissan says otherwise.

Step 5. There are a few different ways to get the fluid out. The Nissan Manual says to turn the truck on, and just pump the brakes to get the fluid out. I thought I was being slick and bought a pneumatic brake bleeder that would suck out the fluid. I found it on Amazon for 20 bucks. It was a waste of money and was taking for ever.

If you want to waste some money:

I used the tubing and soda bottle method, as seen here:

It worked well, and was way faster than the stupid pump I bought.

So get setup, pump the brake a handful of times, check the reservoir, top it off, before you get below the Min line, and make sure your bottle isn't overflowing.

Repeat until you get clean fluid, repeat, in order for each brake. Ensure when you close the brake valve on the caliper you make sure there are no bubbles in your line (indicating air in the system) Torque on the bleeder screw is 10.8NM, so that is snug, but don't crank it down.

I went through almost 64oz of brake fluid. The reservoir is a bit large, as are the brakes.

Brake fluid will eat through paint, try not to be messy and spill, if you do, clean it up right away. Removing the intake tube will make it easier to fill the reservoir, especially if you have a 32oz or large bottle of fluid. Properly dispose of your old brake fluid, it's hazardous, if you want to put the turkey baster back in the Wife's kitchen, thats on you, but don't be a douche and dump your brake fluid where it doesn't belong.



From Nissan:

DRAINING
1. Turn the ignition switch ON.
2. Connect a vinyl tube to the bleeder valve.
3. Depress the brake pedal and loosen the bleeder valve.
4. Depress the brake pedal several times and gradually discharge brake fluid.
REFILLING
CAUTION:
Monitor the brake fluid level in the reservoir tank while performing the refilling.
1. Check that there is no foreign material in the reservoir tank, and refill with new brake fluid.
ALFIA0266ZZ
SBR389C
Revision: March 2016 2016 Titan NAM
MA-38

CHASSIS AND BODY MAINTENANCE
CAUTION:
• Do not reuse drained brake fluid.
• Do not allow oils other than brake fluid to enter the reservoir tank.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON.
3. Connect a vinyl tube to the bleeder valve.
4. Depress the brake pedal and loosen the bleeder valve.
5. Depress the brake pedal several times until the refilled brake fluid is discharged and tighten the bleeder
valve to the specified torque with the brake pedal depressed. Refer to BR-37, "BRAKE PAD : Exploded
View".
6. Bleed the brake system. Refer to MA-38, "BRAKE FLUID : Bleeding Brake System".
BRAKE FLUID : Bleeding Brake System INFOID:0000000013312714
CAUTION:
• If the brake fluid adheres to the brake caliper assembly and disc rotor, quickly wipe it off.
• Do not spill or splash brake fluid on painted surfaces. Brake fluid may seriously damage paint. Wipe
it off immediately and wash with water if it gets on a painted surface.
• Do not operate the brake pedal with the reservoir cap removed. Failure to do this may cause a discharge of brake fluid from the reservoir cap opening.
• Do not operate the brake pedal excessively during the work procedure.
• Monitor the brake fluid level in the reservoir tank while performing the air bleeding.
• Check that there is no foreign material in the reservoir tank.
• Do not reuse drained brake fluid.
• Do not allow oils other than brake fluid to enter the reservoir tank.
NOTE:
When the ignition switch is ON, the brake warning lamp may turn ON even when the parking brake pedal is
released with the brake fluid within the specified level. This indicates the decrease in accumulator fluid pressure.
1. Turn the ignition switch OFF and fill the reservoir tank to MAX line with brake fluid.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON.
NOTE:
The motor is activated and automatically stops.
3. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
4. Depress the brake pedal 20 times or more.
NOTE:
The pressure loss in the accumulator results in a large brake pedal stroke. In addition to this, the brake
pedal depression becomes lighter in initial stage.
5. Repeat steps 2 to 4 for 5 times.
6. Turn the ignition switch ON to check that the time between motor activation and automatic stop is less
than 18 seconds. If the time is 18 seconds or more, repeat from Step 2 to 4 for 5 times.
7. With the ignition switch ON, connect vinyl tubes to the front and rear bleeder valves.
8. Depress the brake pedal. Loosen the front bleeder valve to bleed air in brake line, then tighten front
bleeder valve. Refer to BR-33, "BRAKE CALIPER ASSEMBLY : Exploded View".
9. Repeat steps 1 to 9 until all of the air is out of the front brake line.
10. Release the brake pedal.
11. Depress and hold the brake pedal. Loosen rear bleeder valve to discharge 100 cc (3.4 US fl oz, 3.5 lmp fl
oz), bleed air in brake line, and then tighten rear bleeder valve. Refer to BR-37, "BRAKE PAD : Exploded
View".
12. Repeat until air is out of brake lines.
13. Bleed the air in the following order: front (RH), front (LH), rear (RH), rear (LH).
 

·
Registered User
Joined
·
37 Posts
Wow man nice write up!! I'm starting a list of things to check out when I purchase my XD, this will be in the top 3 for sure! Very nice!
 

·
Registered User
Joined
·
886 Posts
Step 3. cracked me up..."If you stole the turkey baster from the kitchen, toss it, or keep it in the garage as a tool. Don't be a jerk and put it back for the wife to use next November." I'm too old for performing that stunt, but it's imagined that some have to watch their dumb arse kids, or even their woman finding it in the garage and bringing it back into the kitchen to use it later, Lol!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,094 Posts
Step 3. cracked me up..."If you stole the turkey baster from the kitchen, toss it, or keep it in the garage as a tool. Don't be a jerk and put it back for the wife to use next November." I'm too old for performing that stunt, but it's imagined that some have to watch their dumb arse kids, or even their woman finding it in the garage and bringing it back into the kitchen to use it later, Lol!
Better them finding them in the garage than the bathroom 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
 

·
Registered User
Joined
·
44 Posts
Thanks! Quick question though. When Nissan calls for a brake fluid replacement, does that mean you have to bleed all four corners or just use one caliper and dump the old fluid and replace with new? I get bleeding is more effective but doesn’t seem necessary every 20,000?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered User
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thanks! Quick question though. When Nissan calls for a brake fluid replacement, does that mean you have to bleed all four corners or just use one caliper and dump the old fluid and replace with new? I get bleeding is more effective but doesn’t seem necessary every 20,000?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
All four corners to get all the fluid out. I will probably do mine every 30-40k.
 

·
Registered User
Joined
·
135 Posts
great write up! I just did this today to my truck. (2016 XD PR Cummins). I am the original owner and have 20,344 miles on it today. a couple of things I did differently: I put the front up on Rhino Ramps so that I wouldn't have to jack it up or take off the wheels. with the front up on ramps I could get to all four bleeder screws from underneath easily. also I used a small piece of vacuum hose instead of a turkey baster; the small piece of vac hose fits down through the slot on the filler neck of the brake reservoir and you can siphon out ALL of the old/bad fluid and that way you don't have to mix old with new fluid. I used about 75 oz of fluid total to get it completely flushed out. my fluid looked pretty bad (was a very dark brown color; the new fluid was a very pale champagne color) and there was some small brown rust 'dust' that came out of the calipers. I live in a fairly humid location and obviously the brake fluid had been gathering moisture and corrosion had begun. we have a very expensive electric pump brake booster system on our trucks (not a standard vacuum booster) combined with big ABS pumps, and these components do not like water in the brake fluid and will fail eventually. I'll definitely continue to do the brake fluid flush every three years or so from here on out.
 

·
Registered User
Joined
·
492 Posts
I just ordered one of these to start doing brake bleeds myself:


This is the same tool my local guy uses to do it, but he charges 100 bucks, and looking at the youtube videos, it seems incredibly fast. Fluid just comes racing out of the calipers when the vessel is pumped up to 15psi. It's great that the bleeders are accessible without taking the tires off.

What's the consensus on brake fluid for DIY? The manual says DOT3 but you can use DOT4 in place of it, correct?

(edit: woudln't it be funny if the XD tow ratings were absurdly low like they are, because Nissan wanted to save 25 cents on the factory fill of brake fluid by using DOT3 instead of DOT4, which can handle much higher heat.. haha)
 

·
Registered User
Joined
·
74 Posts
I guess this is why they want us to flush the system at 20K.... wonder how much the stealership will charge for this one...LOL
 

·
Registered User
Joined
·
27 Posts
I just ordered one of these to start doing brake bleeds myself:


This is the same tool my local guy uses to do it, but he charges 100 bucks, and looking at the youtube videos, it seems incredibly fast. Fluid just comes racing out of the calipers when the vessel is pumped up to 15psi. It's great that the bleeders are accessible without taking the tires off.

What's the consensus on brake fluid for DIY? The manual says DOT3 but you can use DOT4 in place of it, correct?

(edit: woudln't it be funny if the XD tow ratings were absurdly low like they are, because Nissan wanted to save 25 cents on the factory fill of brake fluid by using DOT3 instead of DOT4, which can handle much higher heat.. haha)
I bought the same brand only the Black Labeled one, and a jar.. 72 ounces wow I was wondering how much I should get.. I have 2 other cars I plan on doing also even though I have bled a lot of brakes in the past never any on purpose.. I was concerned about using the pressure bleeder since there is a fancy brake booster in the system.. glad you posted here seems like everything turned out good then? Thanks for the post..
 

·
Registered User
Joined
·
492 Posts
I bought the same brand only the Black Labeled one, and a jar.. 72 ounces wow I was wondering how much I should get.. I have 2 other cars I plan on doing also even though I have bled a lot of brakes in the past never any on purpose.. I was concerned about using the pressure bleeder since there is a fancy brake booster in the system.. glad you posted here seems like everything turned out good then? Thanks for the post..
I'll let you know Sunday afternoon! That's when I'll have time to do it. I'd do it tomorrow if not for the rain.
 

·
Registered User
Joined
·
27 Posts
I'll let you know Sunday afternoon! That's when I'll have time to do it. I'd do it tomorrow if not for the rain.
Thanks.. what fluid do you plan on using.. during a online search I have been reading tons about hygroscopic resistant DOT 3, 4, 5.1, and a Bosch ES fluid.. Funny thing I never had any issues with whatever I used before. Probably a waste of time reading the rants of someone else.. they all sound good but with a flush at recommended intervals not sure it would matter much..
 

·
Registered User
Joined
·
492 Posts
Thanks.. what fluid do you plan on using.. during a online search I have been reading tons about hygroscopic resistant DOT 3, 4, 5.1, and a Bosch ES fluid.. Funny thing I never had any issues with whatever I used before. Probably a waste of time reading the rants of someone else.. they all sound good but with a flush at recommended intervals not sure it would matter much..
I just bought some Wearever DOT4 at advance auto. We flush so often that I don't think it matters at all what we put in there (DOT3 or DOT4). I got the DOT4 because it wasn't any more expensive and does have a higher boiling point and lower degree of water absorption.
 

·
Registered User
Joined
·
27 Posts
Thanks.. I was thinking DOT4 also.. read something about it affects some o-rings in the master cylinder on some older master cylinders.. with my luck Nissan probably found an auction for a few million old o-rings and used them in the master cylinder on my Titan.. 😕
 

·
Registered User
Joined
·
492 Posts
Alright, so... here goes my experience and lessons learned from doing this for the first time by myself.

1) If you get the Motive Products pump bleeder.. get some teflon tape for the coupler. It will leak without it.
2) Get yourself a length of hose to siphon out the brake fluid reservoir beforehand. There is a LOT of fluid in it and the less you have in there to begin with the better.
3) Use about a 2 foot piece of 3/16" ID hose at the brake calipers. 1/4" is too big and will slip once it gets lubricated with the fluid.
4) Go ahead and put two quarts of brake fluid in the pump. You'll need every drop of it.
5) XD brake bleeders are SOOO SLOOWW.... be prepared to wait.. and wait... and wait..

Okay, so here's how the experience goes once you have everything set up:

-1) Siphon as much brake fluid as you can out of the truck reservoir.
0) Set the pump reservoir LEVEL. Do NOT allow it to sit tilted over. You don't want the pump reservoir to start pumping air into the nearly-empty reservoir in the truck.
1) As you pump up the pressure reservoir, you will see fluid start to flow into the truck's reservoir. Do not panic. This is only because you are compressing the air in the brake fluid reservoir as well and the loss of volume draws fluid in from the pump reservoir. But, since you siphoned off as much as you could beforehand, it won't overflow.
2) Once you reach 15psi, you can start bleeding the calipers.
3) I used a graduated container to measure out about 12 ounces of brake fluid from each caliiper. This will take a loooooooong time.
4) Check your pressure after each wheel and pump back up to 15psi.

When done, remove the pressure from the pump and remove the hose from the reservoir. Top off the reservoir with new fluid and close everything up.

After my flush, the pedal doesn't feel much different. But the last time I had a shop do it, it felt WAY better. Not sure what's up but I might do it all over again tomorrow in case I somehow got some air into the system. If I give the pedal a pump it feels like I would expect... anyway... more fun tomorrow.
 

·
Registered User
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
My experience using a pump is it takes forever, way to long, I don’t know if your fighting the ABS system or what.

Using 2 bucks worth of tubing and a old bottle, pumping the fluid out with the brake pedal is way faster, cheaper. Not to mention it’s how the manual says to do it.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

·
Registered User
Joined
·
492 Posts
Well just coming back to this, the next morning my brake pedal felt GREAT. I have no idea why it had to sit overnight for that to happen but overall I am satisfied with the results. Mission accomplished.
 

·
Registered User
Joined
·
7 Posts
Well just coming back to this, the next morning my brake pedal felt GREAT. I have no idea why it had to sit overnight for that to happen but overall I am satisfied with the results. Mission accomplished.
I did the flush.. changed to DOT4 had clear clean fluid out of each wheel.. thought everything was good. When I disconnected the tank back pressure relief from reservoir did something odd. I had the old used fluid show up from somewhere and came back through the tank line and contaminated the quart or so of DOT 4 left in the tank (I was moving on to flush my other cars) Now I need to go through and flush the trucks system again or take it to a dealer to let them flush it and tell me what happened when I did it.. They have been pretty nice about explanations on my other visits.. for recalls and again when my Turbo went out on my and my injector line came loose..etc… Are you certain you did not have the back pressure into your Motive Tank? If you have any idea what happened to me let me know please. My brakes feel fine and no ABS light to indicate any issues. I just now have old and new fluid in system the Old DOT 3 only 18000 miles on it but 3 years in use.. and DOT 4 mix.. I want to get all the DOT 3 out...
 

·
Registered User
Joined
·
428 Posts
I did the flush.. changed to DOT4 had clear clean fluid out of each wheel.. thought everything was good. When I disconnected the tank back pressure relief from reservoir did something odd. I had the old used fluid show up from somewhere and came back through the tank line and contaminated the quart or so of DOT 4 left in the tank (I was moving on to flush my other cars) Now I need to go through and flush the trucks system again or take it to a dealer to let them flush it and tell me what happened when I did it.. They have been pretty nice about explanations on my other visits.. for recalls and again when my Turbo went out on my and my injector line came loose..etc… Are you certain you did not have the back pressure into your Motive Tank? If you have any idea what happened to me let me know please. My brakes feel fine and no ABS light to indicate any issues. I just now have old and new fluid in system the Old DOT 3 only 18000 miles on it but 3 years in use.. and DOT 4 mix.. I want to get all the DOT 3 out...
I think you'll be fine. When you said you flushed out the DOT3, it would never come out 100%. There would be a mix even at a small percentage. However, if you do another 1 or 2 flushes, it will probably contain 100% DOT4 as you wish. But that would be a waste unless you don't mind spending.
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top