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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For anybody interested in the CFT EGR kit, it is on sale through synthetic off-road (the only dealer for CFT products, besides going through CFT). $1600, $1700 if you want it powder coated. And also $150 off the hot pipe.

I paid full price and installed mine a little over a month ago, and have no complaints and was completely worth the upgrade. No more worrying about when the EGR is going to go out on me or cause catastrophic damage to the engine by getting coolant in it. I have no affiliation with anybody selling parts for our trucks, just thought it was a good deal I found on Facebook and I'm passing on to you guys here.

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2019 Titan XD Pro4x Cummins
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I'm unimpressed with the quality of the cft stuff. I'd rather have to buy a new cooler from Nissan/Cummins than buy his stuff.

Also... I hate gear clamps, especially when someone puts them on silicone hoses. Never mind you can get the good Nissan spring clamps from the dealership for cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I checked all of my pipes inside and out and all the welds look perfect and everything was nice and clean. All of the parts were high quality in my opinion. They have done a few upgrades on some of their parts over the last couple years also. So maybe you are going off there very original kits? I've heard of one up pipe cracking from CFT, but was replaced no questions agreed. If you want to keep recycling exhaust back into your engine with the EGR (even partially deleted trucks still recycle some exhaust into the engine) and having to pay to replace the EGR, and taking the chance you can get coolant into the engine, makes no difference to me.



Not sure what the issue with the clamps are, the clamps I got in my kit were better quality than some of the factory clamps and we're completely equal to the clamps on the intercooler pipes. The truck runs better than ever, it's only a 25-30hp increase, but it picked up a little MPG, throttle response is better, less turbo lag. And it's significantly moved the power band to lower RPMs. The truck drives completely different and better. It's much more civilized driving around town. Until I see something fail from somebody using a good tune, or some kind of catastrophic failure from these egrs being removed with the CFT kit, a lot of your points same valid but don't equate to the real world. You're obviously smarter than just about anybody I've seen on this forum, so no ill will intent by any means.

Here are some pics from my truck.
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2019 Titan XD Pro4x Cummins
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You're obviously smarter than just about anybody I've seen on this forum, so no ill will intent by any means.
Please, please don't say that or think it. I'm not. I'm a high school drop out and I just fumble through everything trying my best to figure out what I can. There have been many valid criticisms laid on my opinions that have made me re-evaluate my position.


Here are some pics from my truck.
... some pics removed
View attachment 47668
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T-bar clamps, I'm not sure if that's the correct name for them, are excellent clamps. The only ones that are better are the t-bars with spring washers that maintain a constant force on the clamp.

The picture of your gearclamp however, shows everything wrong with the gear clamp. The gear clamps damage the hoses they're applied to, leaving deep serrations in the surface of the hose. The tail of the gear clamp tends to be very sharp, a cutting hazard. You only get a few uses out of a section of hose retained with a gear clamp until the hose is damage to the point of needing to be trimmed or replaced. A good quality spring clamp, like Nissans, can be reused numorous times, simply being placed back in its original position. The end of the hose tends to hold together and if you use a fork to remove the hose, the end takes almost no damage at all.

Under that fitting, how large of a coolant pathway is there? What size of hose is that? How much is the hose restricting the flow of coolant?

Also, how many miles do you have on that system? Have you opened up the intake to see if any dust is building up? I had a similar setup on my 5.9, though I also included the fine mesh cover that's supposed to help with dust. When I opened the system up again later there was an extremely fine dust starting to accumulate within the pipes. Most oem filtration systems do a much better job of addressing fine dust and the airflow of the filter housing tends to strip a fair amount of dust before it ever gets to the filter. For this reason, when combined with a premium quality synthetic motor oil, I believe pcv is a good thing. That thin layer of oil will help stop any dust.

At full song, our engines are pulling in the equivalent of a 15L engine through the filter.

The reason I don't like the cft stuff is because it doesn't appear to have adequately addressed these design concerns. Coolant flow in an engine using dissimilar metals is very important.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Please, please don't say that or think it. I'm not. I'm a high school drop out and I just fumble through everything trying my best to figure out what I can. There have been many valid criticisms laid on my opinions that have made me re-evaluate my position.




T-bar clamps, I'm not sure if that's the correct name for them, are excellent clamps. The only ones that are better are the t-bars with spring washers that maintain a constant force on the clamp.

The picture of your gearclamp however, shows everything wrong with the gear clamp. The gear clamps damage the hoses they're applied to, leaving deep serrations in the surface of the hose. The tail of the gear clamp tends to be very sharp, a cutting hazard. You only get a few uses out of a section of hose retained with a gear clamp until the hose is damage to the point of needing to be trimmed or replaced. A good quality spring clamp, like Nissans, can be reused numorous times, simply being placed back in its original position. The end of the hose tends to hold together and if you use a fork to remove the hose, the end takes almost no damage at all.

Under that fitting, how large of a coolant pathway is there? What size of hose is that? How much is the hose restricting the flow of coolant?

Also, how many miles do you have on that system? Have you opened up the intake to see if any dust is building up? I had a similar setup on my 5.9, though I also included the fine mesh cover that's supposed to help with dust. When I opened the system up again later there was an extremely fine dust starting to accumulate within the pipes. Most oem filtration systems do a much better job of addressing fine dust and the airflow of the filter housing tends to strip a fair amount of dust before it ever gets to the filter. For this reason, when combined with a premium quality synthetic motor oil, I believe pcv is a good thing. That thin layer of oil will help stop any dust.

At full song, our engines are pulling in the equivalent of a 15L engine through the filter.

The reason I don't like the cft stuff is because it doesn't appear to have adequately addressed these design concerns. Coolant flow in an engine using dissimilar metals is very important.
I just absolutely did not want to come off as insulting or mean. Great things come from discussions like these. And there are some pretty dang smart high school and college dropouts (Mark Zuckerberg, bill gates, Richard Branson, Elon musk, and even Jay-Z )
I completely understand what you're saying about the clamps now, that makes total sense. At first glance they look like the exact same clamps that Nissan used. Hopefully I don't have to be taking them on and off and they don't cause any issues. I'll have to monitor them to make sure they're not cutting into the silicone.

Under that fitting the openings are the exact same size as the factory. In fact, the o-rings popped perfectly into the original openings. It is their newer designed one, so no RTV needed either. In fact there was no RTV needed on any of the parts. I wish I had a picture of the bottom of that plate before I installed it. To me and my non mechanic eyes, it looked like one of the best made parts of the whole kit. The coolant line coming off of it is the exact same size as the previous. I would assume there's more flow coming through it now because it doesn't wire off and one line go to the EGR and one line go to the reservoir anymore, just one straight line from the engine to the reservoir. So, I would assume there's plenty of flow through there? My coolant temps did significantly drop pulling my travel trailer by 4°. So I don't know it's that's because coolant is not running through the EGR. Around town in normal driving it's about 2° cooler. I was actually quite surprised pulling my travel trailer against the same wind, the same outside, temperatures, and same speed that I was running between 212 and 214 compared to 216 to 220 previously.

My next endeavor is to drain the coolant and add a newer premium coolant.

I went with the oiled intake filter to help better with filtration compared to the replaceable filter hopefully to help with the dust. I've only got about 1,500 MI on with the intake, so I'm going to give it a little bit more before I pop it open and check for dust. That is one of the things I wanted to monitor. I didn't plan on adding the CFT intake, but I kept bending my OEM air filter trying to pull in too much air in though the OEM intake. I haven't personally heard of anybody having issues, and I'll actually I think there's only a few very rare instances of catastrophic damage with this engine at all besides the crankshaft going or the cp4.2 going and causing serious issues. But, I completely agree the less dust the better.

I do run Amsoil and I'm about to install the Amsoil bypass kit to help with the smallest contaminants getting into the oil and help protect the oil even better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It’s crazy it costs so much now- what a ripoff. I paid $600 before powder coat.

I’ve had mine installed for about 50k miles now.
It is insane. I had no idea they were that cheap before. I bought mine when they were cheaper, but the price has skyrocketed. I know part of it is everything goes up in price, covid has driven the cost up on everything, and part of it is the fact that you have the market cornered and can charge whatever you want. But, who else makes a kit that's been proven to work and not blow up our engine, or damage the turbo, or some funky configurations I've seen of people or local shops doing their own and cracking the OEM up pipe or other serious damage. I did see there's another company out of Canada making a kit for the truck that looks legit and very well built, but it hasn't been proven over time yet. And, I think they still want $1700 for theirs.

I've done my research and talked to a lot of people before installing mine, and besides one guy having a cracked up pipe that was replaced under warranty, there's really no complaints except the price. In fact you were one of the last guys I talked to before I installed mine. And you weren't kidding, the truck performs amazing with that EGR gone. It accelerates so easily with very little pedal around town. It was enough of a power difference too that the transmission had to relearn. Now that it has, holy crap it shifts so nice and smooth. I honestly never thought that transmission would feel good as it does. And there's no lag between shifts it just hits the next gear and wants to keep moving, almost like the truck is just asking you to push it harder.
 

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2019 Titan XD Pro4x Cummins
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I've done my research and talked to a lot of people before installing mine, and besides one guy having a cracked up pipe that was replaced under warranty, there's really no complaints except the price. In fact you were one of the last guys I talked to before I installed mine. And you weren't kidding, the truck performs amazing with that EGR gone. It accelerates so easily with very little pedal around town. It was enough of a power difference too that the transmission had to relearn. Now that it has, holy crap it shifts so nice and smooth. I honestly never thought that transmission would feel good as it does. And there's no lag between shifts it just hits the next gear and wants to keep moving, almost like the truck is just asking you to push it harder.
Proper egr removal is on my list because yes they do let some past from what I understand. After pulling back the boost request to basically stoichiometric my transmission got so much smoother. I noticed it wasn't doing the harsh 1-2 shifts in parking lots, and it wouldn't make the truck shudder so bad going into reverse. I also always stop in neutral until it is out of gear before going into reverse, so there is also driveline slack that contributes to the shudder. Almost all, completely gone. It's like a totally different transmission and feels like you describe. Now I really want to get that egr off there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Proper egr removal is on my list because yes they do let some past from what I understand. After pulling back the boost request to basically stoichiometric my transmission got so much smoother. I noticed it wasn't doing the harsh 1-2 shifts in parking lots, and it wouldn't make the truck shudder so bad going into reverse. I also always stop in neutral until it is out of gear before going into reverse, so there is also driveline slack that contributes to the shudder. Almost all, completely gone. It's like a totally different transmission and feels like you describe. Now I really want to get that egr off there.
It did help a lot, and I'm super anal about putting it in reverse to. Always let the truck come to a complete dead stop and don't rush it. It's still is the roughest from one to two though. Everything else is as smooth as butter. And it's only at really low speeds between one and two that it shifts harder.
 

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I bought the whole kit and kinda disappointed in the way that the hot and cold side pipes were bent/fab. I ended up using the original ones. The coolant bypass is starting to leak at the seal. I'm planning to make the seal myself 'cause I don't see a reason to spend $500 for a new bypass.
 
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And straight from CFT website as we speak, it is $1,500.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I bought the whole kit and kinda disappointed in the way that the hot and cold side pipes were bent/fab. I ended up using the original ones. The coolant bypass is starting to leak at the seal. I'm planning to make the seal myself 'cause I don't see a reason to spend $500 for a new bypass.
And straight from CFT website as we speak, it is $1,500.
Wow! When I looked yesterday, they were still at $2000. Good find.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I bought the whole kit and kinda disappointed in the way that the hot and cold side pipes were bent/fab. I ended up using the original ones. The coolant bypass is starting to leak at the seal. I'm planning to make the seal myself 'cause I don't see a reason to spend $500 for a new bypass.
How old is your set up? Did you have the original coolant bypass, or the newer style one? Just curious if I need to keep a good eye on mine. I'm constantly looking for any leaks on the truck and should see it if it happens, but the more aware the better.

Could you just use some RTV to make an additional seal if it's the newer style coolant bypass?

Man, that's a bummer about the intercooler pipes. Mine were a pain to get on fishing against those silicone boots, but had great bends and lined up perfect in the end. I can definitely feel the difference with the extra air moving through there.
 

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How old is your set up? Did you have the original coolant bypass, or the newer style one? Just curious if I need to keep a good eye on mine. I'm constantly looking for any leaks on the truck and should see it if it happens, but the more aware the better.

Could you just use some RTV to make an additional seal if it's the newer style coolant bypass?

Man, that's a bummer about the intercooler pipes. Mine were a pain to get on fishing against those silicone boots, but had great bends and lined up perfect in the end. I can definitely feel the difference with the extra air moving through there.
I bought mine in June 2021, which I believe that it's considered "very recent".

RTV is exactly what I had in mine. I had done this with waterpump sealant on my previous truck (Nissan Frontier) and it was a success.

Yup, that extra air is what I want, but those pipes currently are on the shelves collecting dust.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I bought mine in June 2021, which I believe that it's considered "very recent".

RTV is exactly what I had in mine. I had done this with waterpump sealant on my previous truck (Nissan Frontier) and it was a success.

Yup, that extra air is what I want, but those pipes currently are on the shelves collecting dust.
I feel for you, that's lame. And a crap load of money to sit on the shelves.
 

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I found his up pipe was the best part of the package. I got the coolant tank, egr delete kit, hotside pipe, and turbo inlet, powder coated for 900. The up pipe is solid. Great craftsmanship. On the other hand, the turbo inlet figment was garbage. The hotside pipe wouldn’t stay on after multiple tries. I see you sanded yours down. I did that plus tried using hairspray. I to have the coolant bypass with the 2 O rings. Still leaked until I smothered RTV on it. Now for the coolant tank. I’m seeing dark matter floating and stained on the sight glass. Maybe it’s the powder coating coming off, I don’t know. I’ve flushed my coolant twice and it keeps coming back.

I know how everyone complains about his pricing. I’m used to this type of monopoly. I used to own a GTR and everything you bought had a GTR tax. Hopefully one of these days a knock off like the GTR parts (SPEED BY DESIGN) will copy and we can get better pricing.
 

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DIY EGR Removal for Off-Road Only

Tools:
CNC Waterjet / Plasma / Laser
TIG Welder (or brazing skills)
Lathe (Or steady hand with a cut-off grinder)
Grinder with cut-off

Steps:
1. Drain off some coolant. Remove excess equipment ;).
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2. Cut off the EGR cooler leg of exhaust up pipe. Cut right on the weld. Leaves a nice recess to drop in the plug. Tig weld in the plug. Reinstall pipe with new gaskets.
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3. Cut the turbo flange off of the pipe that ran under the intake manifold. Leaves a nice recess to drop in the plug. Tig weld in the plug. Reinstall flange with new gasket.
Plumbing fixture Terrestrial animal Metal Fashion accessory Automotive exhaust

4. Cut the stainless pipe joining the EGR cooler and intake. Weld plug and mounting tab onto the pipe. Install in the intake pipe with new O-ring.
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5. Install block-off plate on the intake where EGR valve was removed.
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6. Cut (3) steel coolant tubes. Trim ss barb pipe fittings to fit the steel coolant tubes. Weld fittings to tubes. 5/16 on tube that goes to the reservoir. 3/8 on the other 2.
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7. Install coolant tubes and connect with hoses/clamps.
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Parts:
Cummins 4325398 Exhaust Outlet Connection Gasket
Cummins 4325437 Gasket between up pipe and turbo
Cummins 4325416 / Nissan 14722EZ40B Gasket between turbo and EGR tube that runs under the intake manifold.
Cummins 4325562 / Nissan 14035EZ40D GASKET Coolant (block plate) to intake pipe
Cummins 4325561 / Nissan 14035EZ40C GASKET Intake pipe to manifold
Cummins 4325565 / Nissan 14035EZ40E GASKET-EGR valve (block plate) to intake pipe (metal mesh/graphite)
Cummins 4325398 / Nissan 14038EZ40B Exhaust Gasket between right manifold and up-pipe
Cummins 4977258 / Nissan 21049EZ40B SEAL-O RING (1) for cooling tubes return to water pump.
Nissan 14038EZ40C Exhaust Gasket between right up-pipe and turbo
Nissan 21049EZ40A SEAL-O RING for SS cooled EGR SS Tube going into bottom of intake.
Nissan 21049EZ40C SEAL-O RING (2) for cooling tube at head.
Nissan 999MPL25500P NISSAN LONG LIFE Antifreeze
304 SS Sheet Metal for plugs/block-off.
Amazon:
DERNORD Stainless Steel 3/8" Hose Barb x 3/8" NPT Male - Pipe Fitting Pack of 2 (use 2)
Beduan Stainless Steel 5/16" Hose Barb to 3/8" Male NPT Fitting (Pack of 2) (use 1)
Silicone Heater Hose Vacuum Line 3/8" Inch X 5 Feet 10MM 1 ply High Temp Nylon Reinforced 4MM Thick Black Max Temperature Rating 350F
Silicone Heater Hose Vacuum Line 5/16" Inch X 5 Feet 1 ply High Temp Nylon Reinforced 4MM Thick Black Max Temperature Rating 350F
Hose clamps
80 Pack Nylon Push Mount Cable Zip Tie, 8.3"x0.18" Heavy Duty Nylon Push Mount (Black) $12.89

I did (2) now. One with the engine in and one out. Under $200 in parts (+ the tune). Probably 4-5 hours start to finish on trucks with low mileage (bolts all backed out smooth).
 

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If you are referring to this piece, then yes I did remove it.
View attachment 47689
No inline butterfly valve before the turbos. On stock tunes it's why our trucks hiss at idle. I've heard, but not experienced it myself, that in high boost situations, the airflow can catch the butterfly and slam it shut. I have no way to substantiate that myself, but apparently it happens to the ISX.
 
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