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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2016 Platinum Reserve Cummins, 97k miles, bought it at 72k miles last year. Deleted and tuned it 2 weeks after purchase.

Being that it spent 72k miles with a functioning EGR and CCV (CCV system is still stock, I have plans to fix that so it doesn't trash my turbos) my intake manifold probably looks terrible. I'm a few hours from finishing my shift and then I'm off for a few days. I'm going to remove my intake manifold and clean it to the best of my ability with what I have. Hopefully enough scraping, rinsing, and sitting in a bath of Dawn soap and water will do the trick. I'll post updates and pictures as I go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Time to get started. It's hot as hell outside, but I don't want to wait around for sunset and waste time.
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I'm not sure this is worth the effort to be honest, but be sure to look at the service manual--I seem to recall you have to be careful which side of the turbo RCN actuator arm you take loose. I want to say it is the top link to the actuator itself--which is easier to get at anyway. That gunk is pretty tough for sure..solvents such as carb cleaner are the way to go. I'd just be worried about dislodging some gunk or getting it in the head passages.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm not sure this is worth the effort to be honest, but be sure to look at the service manual--I seem to recall you have to be careful which side of the turbo RCN actuator arm you take loose. I want to say it is the top link to the actuator itself--which is easier to get at anyway. That gunk is pretty tough for sure..solvents such as carb cleaner are the way to go. I'd just be worried about dislodging some gunk or getting it in the head passages.
I'm not touching the turbos. The EGR dumps into that casted elbow, right before the manifold. So the turbo compressors aren't effected by exhaust gasses. They are, however, effected by crankcase gasses that contain oil vapors. But that's for a different day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok, if any of you do this, for fuck's sake, drain your coolant first...don't ask, it's been a lomg day before I even started this. Also, the radiator petcock screw has very little threading. As soon as you get a little bit of flow that isn't a trickle, stop. Otherwise, you might unthread the plastic screw and cause coolant to gush out chaotically, soaking yourself and your driveway because it's strangley hard to thread back in....don't ask.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
For the coupling of the casted elbow and charge pipe, this bolt, 8mm, is a bitch to get to. A ratecthing combo wrench would've been worth the money if I knew about it beforehand. I was only able to turn my wrench very little at a time.
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The casted intake elbow, and what's inside of it. You can see clearly where the EGR dumps exhaust gas. Keep in mind when removing, there's a coolant pipe attached below it that hides. That will be to be unbolted. The connection between the EGR cooler and the elbow is just a pipe with O-rings, but it puts up a good fight. Just give it a good wiggle as you pull.
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
One of two EGR valves. This one connects to a pipe that goes directly to the exhaust pipes at the turbo
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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Casted elbow removed.
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EGR cooler and this black thing have to be removed as one piece. Those two bolts on the left can't be acessed when it's in the truck, so you'll need to removed 3 10mm bolts attatching the whole thing to the exhaust, near the firewall. I had to unbolt 3 8mm bolts and peel back the heat shield to do this.
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EGR cooler removed
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The ass end of the Holset M2 turbo assembly
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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
I got the intake manifold off and removed the rubber seals at the bottom after taking pictures. There is a long, skinny metal tube coming out of the driver side of the manifold that goes down to the driver side exhaust manifold. This is for the sesnor attached above it to read exhaust manifold pressure. The nut is 12mm, and I had to unbolt (8mm) and bend the heat shield attatched to that exhaust manifold. I found this to be easier done from under the truck, after trying it from ontop, laying on the engine like an idiot, shoulder deep and cutting my arms. I can't seem to pull it out, though it does wiggle. My guess is that it's held in by a really good O-ring. I was putting an uncomfortable amount of force on it before I gave up in fear of damaging the seal, or my shoulder.
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So far nearly every bolt is 10mm. The bolts for the coolant pipes are 8mm, and if you want to remove a coupling boot for the bent intercooler pipes those are 11mm. I might be missing a few, but 10mm is king. I also reccomend a universal joint and a long extension for your sockets. Some spots will require a wrench for those narrow spots.
 

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I'm not touching the turbos. The EGR dumps into that casted elbow, right before the manifold. So the turbo compressors aren't effected by exhaust gasses.
Yes, the manual (picture below) calls for disconnecting the swing arm from the actuator but I see you left it attached and set the actuator aside a bit to lift the manifold off.

I would agree that the compressor side of the turbos is not affected by exhaust gases, but some folks have experienced carbon/soot buildup on the exhaust side which has caused movement problems on the RCN valve. Whether that is causing the actuators to fail or if it just they are just prone to failure, I'm not sure has been really determined yet....

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Where did you find a service manual? That might be helpful for some future projects. Also, it's hard to say what's causing actuator failure. I've read of some people going over 100k miles with no problem while some fail within 50k. I'm also skeptical to mess with that whole thing since our turbo actuators seem to fail if you look at them wrong. I'll do some reading on the turbo failures and see if I can find anything useful. Thank you for pointing this out.

Another helpful tip for anyone pursuing not only this project, but anything that involves removing more than a handful of bolts: seperate and label your bolts! Sensors, too. This might save your ass, especially if it's something that takes more than one night.
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I don't know what size the 3 sensors on the left are. I don't have a combo wrench big enough, so I used an adjustabke wrench. These guys had about 1/8" of crap surrounding the probes. Probably making it hard to do whatever is is they do. The one on the far right uses a T15 Torx bolt.
 

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Where did you find a service manual? That might be helpful for some future projects. Also, it's hard to say what's causing actuator failure. I've read of some people going over 100k miles with no problem while some fail within 50k. I'm also skeptical to mess with that whole thing since our turbo actuators seem to fail if you look at them wrong. I'll do some reading on the turbo failures and see if I can find anything useful. Thank you for pointing this out.

Another helpful tip for anyone pursuing not only this project, but anything that involves removing more than a handful of bolts: seperate and label your bolts! Sensors, too. This might save your ass, especially if it's something that takes more than one night. View attachment 46515
I don't know what size the 3 sensors on the left are. I don't have a combo wrench big enough, so I used an adjustabke wrench. These guys had about 1/8" of crap surrounding the probes. Probably making it hard to do whatever is is they do. The one on the far right uses a T15 Torx bolt.

Stay frosty
 

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@OP - awesome job, and great insights, thanks.
With my crappy eyesight, and the "black-on-black" view of the various pipes, tubes, etc., I could not tell - how much build-up are you finding?

Russ
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The camera doesn't pick it up well, even with flash, since the carbon doesn't reflect light hardly at all. It's like taking a picture of a void. Trust me...there was a lot of crap in there. I cleaned the intake manifold and the elbow today. I cleaned and used my recycle bin, the kind you out in the street curb, to soak the parts in a heavy mixture if dawn soap and water. Good enough for ducks, good enough for parts, right? After letting it soak for an hour, spraying it out with the jet mode in my water hose, and repeating a few times, and the results are pretty good. There was a ridiculous amount of carbon build-up coming out of the manifolds. While I couldn't get the inside squeaky clean with what I had around the house, what's left is extremely thin. I went from 1/8" and more of caked on crap to something so thin that I can see the texture of the casting. On many large spots I could actually see the aluminum. That's enough to make me happy. If you use something stronger than dawn soap and a backyard hose, you could achieve more, but things cost money. If you do this, and you're tuned/deleted, leave both EGR valves unplugged. I'm pretty sure deleted tunes close them, but I've that the tune isn't always reliable in keeping the valves closed. I won't be able to put everything back for a few days since I broke the pressure sensor that taps into the large turbo's compressor hosuing. I was wiggling the rubber intake hose off, the one with the rag in it, to retrieve a coolant oipe bolt that fell into the intake valley last night. While wiggling it off, the CCV hose barely hit the sensor amd the damn thing broke....so be careful with those. Luckily Amazon has ome for $15. The part number is printed on the connector.
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
My wife and I have another car, a '14 Ford Focus. So downtine in the truck isn't a concern. Since my dumbass lost over half the coolant to the driveway, I figured this would also be a good time to flush my system and put in some Rotella ELC NF.
 

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I have a 2016 Platinum Reserve Cummins, 97k miles, bought it at 72k miles last year. Deleted and tuned it 2 weeks after purchase.

Being that it spent 72k miles with a functioning EGR and CCV (CCV system is still stock, I have plans to fix that so it doesn't trash my turbos) my intake manifold probably looks terrible. I'm a few hours from finishing my shift and then I'm off for a few days. I'm going to remove my intake manifold and clean it to the best of my ability with what I have. Hopefully enough scraping, rinsing, and sitting in a bath of Dawn soap and water will do the trick. I'll post updates and pictures as I go.
thank you for the post..im in a similiar position mileage wise...but not doing delete till necessary...just wondered if truck feels any different since your deep clean?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I haven't drove it yet. The replacement sensor came in the mail last night, so I put the truck mostly back together today before work. I still need to attatch the EGR cooler, re-attatch coolant pipes, and fasten the nut for the exhaust manifold pressure tube. That nut is a bitch to get back on. Once everything's put back together I'll flush the cooling system with distilled water then add the Rotella ELC NF coolant I bought from Tractor Supply.

Another tip: since the EGR cooler and the bigger of the two EGR valves cannot be seperated until the whole thing is removed, there's no point in seperating them. I learned this after waisting well over 2 hours trying to sperate the EGR cooler, big EGR valve,and the black thing (no idea what it's called). To remove, simply undo the 4 bolts holding the black thing to the intake manifold, 2 on top and 2 on the side, and the 3 bolts attatching the EGR valve to the exhaust downpipe. Take your coolant pipes off and it will come out as one big assembly as shown on the picture. Eventually, once I get a drill press and a better band saw blade, I'll make some block off plates and something to re-route coolant so I can just remove anything to do with EGR. It'll open up a ton of space, which would be awesome since I like to tinker with my vehicles.
Also, as some forum threads will reccomend for deleted guys, I'm leaving my EGR valves unplugged. Some people will mention weird behavior with their turbos until they did this.
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I haven't drove it yet. The replacement sensor came in the mail last night, so I put the truck mostly back together today before work. I still need to attatch the EGR cooler, re-attatch coolant pipes, and fasten the nut for the exhaust manifold pressure tube. That nut is a bitch to get back on. Once everything's put back together I'll flush the cooling system with distilled water then add the Rotella ELC NF coolant I bought from Tractor Supply.

Another tip: since the EGR cooler and the bigger of the two EGR valves cannot be seperated until the whole thing is removed, there's no point in seperating them. I learned this after waisting well over 2 hours trying to sperate the EGR cooler, big EGR valve,and the black thing (no idea what it's called). To remove, simply undo the 4 bolts holding the black thing to the intake manifold, 2 on top and 2 on the side, and the 3 bolts attatching the EGR valve to the exhaust downpipe. Take your coolant pipes off and it will come out as one big assembly as shown on the picture. Eventually, once I get a drill press and a better band saw blade, I'll make some block off plates and something to re-route coolant so I can just remove anything to do with EGR. It'll open up a ton of space, which would be awesome since I like to tinker with my vehicles.
Also, as some forum threads will reccomend for deleted guys, I'm leaving my EGR valves unplugged. Some people will mention weird behavior with their turbos until they did this.
View attachment 46534
I noticed a large difference when I unplugged my EGR sensors. Turbos stay spooled somewhat when you let off, allowing for a quicker spool up when you get back into it. (Plus lots more turbo sound. 😍)
 
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