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Discussion Starter #1
Just finished my first fuel filter change. This is my first diesel.
Spent time sifting through the forums and looked at every YouTube video.

Got it done and have a few outstanding questions.

1) is there any specific order to complete this in? Seems like some do stage 2 first others do 1. I figured stage 1 is the least pure and change that first. I drained. Changed. Primed, check for leaks and start on stage 2.

2) I like some others had a lot of fuel drain from the purge valve. If any water was in there it didn't last but a few seconds. I got probably 1/4 a gallon before I finally said screw it and opened the filter housing. Got a little messy but proceeded. The instructions state wait until the purge valve stops draining. Some say trickle. I had a steady weak stream before I got inpatient. Was there any problems with me just proceeding? And what was left when I cracked open the canister when it poured out was that what would have been left in the system to come out of the valve?

I saw some back and forth on if having less than 1/4 tank is a benefit (someone said full has more pressure on the valve) and what incline to be parked on. Does this actually help?

3) I received my stage 1 filter with broken tabs from shipping damage. One of the 3 top tabs was broke. And a piece of the bottom lip. I proceeded with the install as the truck really needed it and I didn't know when the truck was last done (just bought it and it needs a little catch up maintenance). Now that I'm overthinking myself was this ok. I'm concerned about contaminants now from the broken tabs. I think the Amazon seller is going to send me a new one anyway. Can I just run this filter the way it is for 10k or should I really replace it again because of the tabs?

4) had a little difficulty with stage 2 filter. Unscrewed the cap and it sprayed fuel a little (was I missing a step?) And the housing remained full. Ioved straight from priming the system after changing stage 1 and running my truck to confirm no leaks to changing stage 2 filter. It wasn't until I re read the directions that said the housing will drain when being unscrewed so I just rescrewed the cap and even slower (grammar?) Unscrewed it and it seemed to drain properly.

5) last question. Really Stoopid one. I assume the fuel pump primes every time the truck is in on/ and before it starts? Never really paid attention until now. I had my truck in the on position a few minutes ago working on programming my scangauge ii and noticed the fuel pump doing it's thing for the first 90 seconds and heard some gurlging like it still had work to be done. When I primed after both filters I primed maybe overkill 4 times even though the after stage 1 the pressure warning went away after two primes. And actually I never got a low pressure warning after changing the stage 2 filter.


Ok fingers hurt. Just wanted to clarify these things. Thanks for the help in advance. This was pretty easy to do overall.
 

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Your doing fine, practice, more you do it.. the easier it will be.. hope your using a 28mm 6point socket for the canisters.. and no it really does not make any difference which filter you change first.. Some owners have a theory.. But I have two trucks and have done them both different ways.. end up with the same results.. Sometimes more air gets in than others.. Just have to prime more sometimes..
 

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I used the 1 1/8th. The last sucker had that thing on tight and scared the living crap out of me trying to break it lose but I got it. I suspect the fuel filters may have never been done. Truck has 25k on it. They were pretty much all black. But either way now I have control so every 10k it is.

What do you think about the plastic tabs broken and using the filters anyway?
 

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Just finished my first fuel filter change. This is my first diesel.
Spent time sifting through the forums and looked at every YouTube video.

Got it done and have a few outstanding questions.

1) is there any specific order to complete this in? Seems like some do stage 2 first others do 1. I figured stage 1 is the least pure and change that first. I drained. Changed. Primed, check for leaks and start on stage 2.

2) I like some others had a lot of fuel drain from the purge valve. If any water was in there it didn't last but a few seconds. I got probably 1/4 a gallon before I finally said screw it and opened the filter housing. Got a little messy but proceeded. The instructions state wait until the purge valve stops draining. Some say trickle. I had a steady weak stream before I got inpatient. Was there any problems with me just proceeding? And what was left when I cracked open the canister when it poured out was that what would have been left in the system to come out of the valve?

I saw some back and forth on if having less than 1/4 tank is a benefit (someone said full has more pressure on the valve) and what incline to be parked on. Does this actually help?

3) I received my stage 1 filter with broken tabs from shipping damage. One of the 3 top tabs was broke. And a piece of the bottom lip. I proceeded with the install as the truck really needed it and I didn't know when the truck was last done (just bought it and it needs a little catch up maintenance). Now that I'm overthinking myself was this ok. I'm concerned about contaminants now from the broken tabs. I think the Amazon seller is going to send me a new one anyway. Can I just run this filter the way it is for 10k or should I really replace it again because of the tabs?

4) had a little difficulty with stage 2 filter. Unscrewed the cap and it sprayed fuel a little (was I missing a step?) And the housing remained full. Ioved straight from priming the system after changing stage 1 and running my truck to confirm no leaks to changing stage 2 filter. It wasn't until I re read the directions that said the housing will drain when being unscrewed so I just rescrewed the cap and even slower (grammar?) Unscrewed it and it seemed to drain properly.

5) last question. Really Stoopid one. I assume the fuel pump primes every time the truck is in on/ and before it starts? Never really paid attention until now. I had my truck in the on position a few minutes ago working on programming my scangauge ii and noticed the fuel pump doing it's thing for the first 90 seconds and heard some gurlging like it still had work to be done. When I primed after both filters I primed maybe overkill 4 times even though the after stage 1 the pressure warning went away after two primes. And actually I never got a low pressure warning after changing the stage 2 filter.


Ok fingers hurt. Just wanted to clarify these things. Thanks for the help in advance. This was pretty easy to do overall.
As far as procedure goes, below is what I do because we usually change the oil at the same time we do fuel filters:
Note: Follow only the FleetGuard instructions with your fuel filters and do not follow YouTube Video instructions:
1. Disconnect batteries; don't let anyone tell you not to do this. Very very bad practice not doing so.
2. Place drain pan under Stage 1; open and begin drain process.
3. Place drain pan under oil pan; open and begin drain process.
4. Open oil filler cap; turn upside down on tube to prevent debris entry.
5. Remove and Replace Stage 2 filter in accordance with FleetGaurd Instructions. Using only a 28 mm hex socket.
6. Remove and replace oil filter.
7. Install oil pan drain plug.
8. Fill engine oil.
Note: By the time you have done all the above the Stage 1 will have finished draining.
9. Replace Stage 1 filter using the FleetGaurd Instructions and only using a 28mm hex socket.
10. Connect batteries.
11. Prime the truck no less than two times before attempting to start in accordance with the priming procedures located in the manual. I personally recommend priming three times before ever attempting to start. You will not shorten the life of your pump doing so but, conversely, will extend the life of your pump because you won't be trying to continuously start with air entrainment in the system.

The biggest thing you can't be when servicing the fuel system is impatient as you mentioned. Please take your time and do not rush. No matter how many times you do it....
On the broken tabs...well you already did it but I would not do that again and I would highly recommend you change when the new filters come in.
The tabs align the filter to the housing to ensure a proper alignment and seal and to aid in removal after unit has been in service.
 

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Arice,
Spot on except Nissan instructs to change stage 2 first then stage 1. I lost very little fuel compared to the other descriptions here.

Arice I agree with this also.
It makes no sense to change one filter then pressurize the system, then disconnect batteries again and do the other filter.

Disconnect the batteries drain the oil remove and replace the oil filter.
Remove and install stage 2 first (top fuel filter). Then drain stage 1 (1/4 turn yellow water separator valve) and undue filter body remove carefully and install.
Put the engine oil in the truck. Then reconnect the batteries I only primed it twice because the warning went out then start it up.
 

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Arice,
Spot on except Nissan instructs to change stage 2 first then stage 1. I lost very little fuel compared to the other descriptions here.
??That's what I said above?...change oil and Stage 2 while 1 is draining. My thought process is:
- By disconnecting the batteries you are preventing any accidental pressurization of the fuel system...
- By draining the Stage 1 while doing oil and changing Stage 2 you are also helping to relive any fuel pressurization on the system. May only be pre-pump but worth something.
I've not read the Nissan service manual procedure. Only the FleetGuard instructions and what is in the owners manual and then developed my process from that.
It makes no sense to change one filter then pressurize the system, then disconnect batteries again and do the other filter.
You risk pushing contamination from a dirty filter to a brand new one and you also are pressurizing the system again before another service procedure that is in line...not good practice IMO....if that's what the Nissan service manual reads then I'm saying it's wrong?....and I don't argue with the manual often.
 

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What is the reasoning for disconnecting batteries for filter replacements? (only thing I can think of is to make sure the lift pump does not energize...however possible that is).
 

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What is the reasoning for disconnecting batteries for filter replacements? (only thing I can think of is to make sure the lift pump does not energize...however possible that is).
Chief, same reason we do "lock out/tag out" on electeical breaker panels even though we are working right next to them...preventing the unexpected....all it takes is a accidental push of the start, kids or dog to jump in the cab while your under the truck, buddy messing around, or any number of other "unlikely" incidents to create a problem.
I'm not a safety nazi by any means but stupid stuff happens more often than we think ..YouTube and Facebook tell us that??....plus...the audience here is not primarily mechanics?....as you probably know thru training young mechanics and every Army technical manual ever written?....first step in electrical and fuel system repairs...disconnect batteries...unless of course your doing BDAR then all bets are off.
 

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Arice...that's what I figured (hence my thoughts in parenthesis above). Just wanted to make sure I didn't miss something hidden (Flux capacitor) or something :)
 

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Arice...that's what I figured (hence my thoughts in parenthesis above). Just wanted to make sure I didn't miss something hidden (Flux capacitor) or something /forum/images/CumminsTitan/smilies/tango_face_smile.png
No sir; no flux capacitor lol..but I do wonder if the ECM logs it as an event on the drive? Could be useful if a guy was ever questioned about changing filters if it did.
I haven't had Insite hooked to the 5.0 but I know every other industrial, medium and heavy duty application Cummins logs every event imaginable.
 

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Was thinking, and I know that can be dangerous, lol..
One reason Nissan suggests Stage II First is what I believe is the Straw Theory, by keeping Stage I close your holding fuel in place in the line or less fuel to feed back to the tank.. Now when fuel temps are below 100 degrees, the Stage I lift pump has a Check Therm valve port that recirculates the fuel in the system from being pulled directly from the tank until engine is started, because the fuel is under high pressure from both lift pump (50-80)psi, and main pump CP4.2 which just during start to idle goes to 3000+ psi, that fuel is Warmed Quickly, which helps cold engine start and running. This all happens quickly the sensor then opens in the Stage I and starts pulling directly from tank..

http://www.nissantechnicianinfo.mobi/htmlversions/2015_October_November_Issue_4/Fuel_System.html

By doing Stage II first and the Straw effect concept, then changing the Stage I, less air in the line.. Nissan says you don't have to worry about air in the system because as the lift pump pushed fuel to the pump it will purge the air by the routing design of the fuel system.. Not all wrong.. but I can tell you from direct experience with this system. It is possible to get so much air in the system that you will never get it to start with out cracking injector lines at the injectors, because air has trapped in the rails and it acts like a air shock absorber and the CP4 can't build the minimum 1896+psi for the FPS to tell the ECM to open the Piezo injectors, resulting in a No Run condition. But this is Extreme. Been there
I have changed fuel filters with the two XD's I have in several directions, Stage II, Stage I, vs. versa.. I have found depending how and the open system time and the amount of air enters the system will determine how much Prime Procedure Cycles you may need to do before she will run. As I have seen as well the Low Pressure Warning message Go Away and still have to Prime few more cycles because there is still air in the system and CP4.2 pump has not purged enough fuel and has not got to 1900+ psi for injectors to open.
In Summary - If your XD was fine as to starting and running before you did the Fuel Filter change and after you did a Fuel Filter Change and now It Won't Run (start up), assuming something didn't fail during the change, highly unlikely.. It's not running because you have A. Air trapped still and needs more Priming to Purge. B. You have a Sealing issue with one of the Stage Filters, C. You forgot to Close the Quick Drain on the Stage I Filter Canister.
Note: Just because the " Low Fuel Pressure " warning is no longer reporting Does NOT mean it will start/run.. That message comes from a Pressure Sensor at the Stage II Filter Housing and measures the 50-80 PSI Lift Pump only, which is part of your Stage I Filter Canister.
So don't be discouraged or panic.. about not start/run.. just means if everything is done correctly and you prime more.. She will run..
Sorry to bore so many here with this.. but in recent months have read to many reports and complaints about the start/run issue after fuel filter change.. Once you get the hang of it.. It is a sweet fuel system if you understand it. That's not to say there better.. But it is a good simple and effective fuel system..and as for the CP4.2 pump, A Great Pump, But it can't stand Poor Fuel, conditioner is a must if you want to go 2-300,000 miles or more on it..

Enjoy Drive Safe Stay Alert
Ric
 

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Arice,
Spot on except Nissan instructs to change stage 2 first then stage 1. I lost very little fuel compared to the other descriptions here.
??That's what I said above?...change oil and Stage 2 while 1 is draining. My thought process is:
- By disconnecting the batteries you are preventing any accidental pressurization of the fuel system...
- By draining the Stage 1 while doing oil and changing Stage 2 you are also helping to relive any fuel pressurization on the system. May only be pre-pump but worth something.
I've not read the Nissan service manual procedure. Only the FleetGuard instructions and what is in the owners manual and then developed my process from that.
It makes no sense to change one filter then pressurize the system, then disconnect batteries again and do the other filter.
You risk pushing contamination from a dirty filter to a brand new one and you also are pressurizing the system again before another service procedure that is in line...not good practice IMO....if that's what the Nissan service manual reads then I'm saying it's wrong?....and I don't argue with the manual often.
If you change the stage one first I don’t think contamination will be an issue.
 

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Just a note the Nissan book says to do the primary filter at the tank then prime run and let set for 2minutes before opening the secondary at the engine due to fuel pressure in the system.
 

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Not here to counter anyone or maybe Nissan.. nothing like experience.. Hands on.. as long as you don't have the Lift Pump Stage I filter running, power on and same time removing the Stage II canister.. that's how your going to get fuel to spray out of the Stage II canister.. As for the High Pressure issue about letting it sit for two minutes... well the system bleeds off the 3000+ at idle psi just about as fast as the engine is shut off.. But for safety issues they recommend not to open the system componets like the injector lines.. etc. I can tell you from lots of hours working on this system.. the FPR bleeds the HP system pressure in a minute or less back to the Stage II filter canister..
The only pressure you Might find is right after you prime the system with the Stage I Lift pump (50-80)psi is what Nissan is warning you could happen... but not from the HP rail system.. again.. just FYI, I have got about 50 hours alone working directly on this system of Priming, Filter Changes, CP4.2, Injectors as I had to rebuild a XD that was a Submarine, was totally Underwater submerged for 3+ days before it was pulled out of the deep.. So what I share is Hard Core Experience.. Books and Manuals are Great Guides, but Nothing replaces Hands On..
Just for the records.
Again you can change filters anyway you want just follow proper procedures, but as for sequence Stage I or II, doesn't matter, the metal and system is Stupid, you just have to be smarter..
Note, like Arice shared his method.,. it is a method that works well and is good.. but it's not the only way to do it.. Find what works best for you.. but again.. Understand the system and what your doing, and in all of it. Don't Get In a Hurry.


Enjoy.. Be Safe
Ric
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for all the feedback everyone! New filter on the way and I'll approach a little differently next time. Obvioisly when I get my stage 1 filter I'll just have to replace that only until next round.
 

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Changed mine yesterday, was a **** mess. I drained the frame mount filter. More than 7qts came out and filled up my pan. When I loosened it, it all came out on me.
 

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I am at 62000 on mine . have done all fuel filters myself. Oddly the last two changes. stage two filter did not drain as quickly as prior changes. When I started to remove filter that triggered the fuel to drain out of canister. Pissed some on floor down side of motor etc. Stage one was already completed. I only mention this as a FYI perhaps to others.
 

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Changed mine yesterday, was a **** mess. I drained the frame mount filter. More than 7qts came out and filled up my pan. When I loosened it, it all came out on me.
Kannweld, HI :)
Really 7 (Seven) Quarts,, the lines and all the fuel in the system does not hold that much.. Someway your were siphoning from the Tank.. Was your Tank Real Full.. I can only think it was because your Tank was very or near very Full.. ..
Not doubting you, but almost 2 gallons..
Kind Regards,
Ric
 

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Ya the tank was full lol. Easy task just messy lol



Changed mine yesterday, was a **** mess. I drained the frame mount filter. More than 7qts came out and filled up my pan. When I loosened it, it all came out on me.
Kannweld, HI /forum/images/CumminsTitan/smilies/tango_face_smile.png
Really 7 (Seven) Quarts,, the lines and all the fuel in the system does not hold that much.. Someway your were siphoning from the Tank.. Was your Tank Real Full.. I can only think it was because your Tank was very or near very Full.. ..
Not doubting you, but almost 2 gallons..
Kind Regards,
Ric
 

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Ya the tank was full lol. Easy task just messy lol
Recommend, as we both know life is learning experience.. Change fuel filters at 1/4 tank.. that way you will have very little to no siphoning from the tank... No Mess No Fuss LOL :)
Appreciate the Reply
Ric
 
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