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I will definitely do that next time. Thanks!

Ya the tank was full lol. Easy task just messy lol
Recommend, as we both know life is learning experience.. Change fuel filters at 1/4 tank.. that way you will have very little to no siphoning from the tank... No Mess No Fuss LOL /forum/images/CumminsTitan/smilies/tango_face_smile.png
Appreciate the Reply
Ric
 

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keep it simple

Just read everyone's posts including mine. I used oem filters and 10/30 blended Rotella.

I have only done (1) 10k mile service but I drove it, shut it off in my work area and allowed about an hour of cool down. Both grounds were removed for piece of mind.
The plastic under the drain plug and oil filter are next, remove the oil drain plug, change stage 2, then the oil filter, my oil drained for 1/2 hour.
Remove the shield then carefully, open the water drain on stage 1 and remove the filter housing and gently pry the filter out below the 3 notches.
Fill her with oil, re-attach the grounds, 2 prime cycles (for mine) and she started right up and ran awesome right away.

Using this sequence with the fuel filters I lost about 10 oz. of fuel and it took a little over an hour.
This you tube clip helped me the most.

https://youtu.be/fNZWPuqZIWY
 

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Was thinking, and I know that can be dangerous, lol..
One reason Nissan suggests Stage II First is what I believe is the Straw Theory, by keeping Stage I close your holding fuel in place in the line or less fuel to feed back to the tank.. Now when fuel temps are below 100 degrees, the Stage I lift pump has a Check Therm valve port that recirculates the fuel in the system from being pulled directly from the tank until engine is started, because the fuel is under high pressure from both lift pump (50-80)psi, and main pump CP4.2 which just during start to idle goes to 3000+ psi, that fuel is Warmed Quickly, which helps cold engine start and running. This all happens quickly the sensor then opens in the Stage I and starts pulling directly from tank..

http://www.nissantechnicianinfo.mobi/htmlversions/2015_October_November_Issue_4/Fuel_System.html

By doing Stage II first and the Straw effect concept, then changing the Stage I, less air in the line.. Nissan says you don't have to worry about air in the system because as the lift pump pushed fuel to the pump it will purge the air by the routing design of the fuel system.. Not all wrong.. but I can tell you from direct experience with this system. It is possible to get so much air in the system that you will never get it to start with out cracking injector lines at the injectors, because air has trapped in the rails and it acts like a air shock absorber and the CP4 can't build the minimum 1896+psi for the FPS to tell the ECM to open the Piezo injectors, resulting in a No Run condition. But this is Extreme. Been there
I have changed fuel filters with the two XD's I have in several directions, Stage II, Stage I, vs. versa.. I have found depending how and the open system time and the amount of air enters the system will determine how much Prime Procedure Cycles you may need to do before she will run. As I have seen as well the Low Pressure Warning message Go Away and still have to Prime few more cycles because there is still air in the system and CP4.2 pump has not purged enough fuel and has not got to 1900+ psi for injectors to open.
In Summary - If your XD was fine as to starting and running before you did the Fuel Filter change and after you did a Fuel Filter Change and now It Won't Run (start up), assuming something didn't fail during the change, highly unlikely.. It's not running because you have A. Air trapped still and needs more Priming to Purge. B. You have a Sealing issue with one of the Stage Filters, C. You forgot to Close the Quick Drain on the Stage I Filter Canister.
Note: Just because the " Low Fuel Pressure " warning is no longer reporting Does NOT mean it will start/run.. That message comes from a Pressure Sensor at the Stage II Filter Housing and measures the 50-80 PSI Lift Pump only, which is part of your Stage I Filter Canister.
So don't be discouraged or panic.. about not start/run.. just means if everything is done correctly and you prime more.. She will run..
Sorry to bore so many here with this.. but in recent months have read to many reports and complaints about the start/run issue after fuel filter change.. Once you get the hang of it.. It is a sweet fuel system if you understand it. That's not to say there better.. But it is a good simple and effective fuel system..and as for the CP4.2 pump, A Great Pump, But it can't stand Poor Fuel, conditioner is a must if you want to go 2-300,000 miles or more on it..

Enjoy Drive Safe Stay Alert
Ric
Your link to the fuel system is Awesome!

I am trying to troubleshoot a problem that started after over 1600 miles into a trip after changing the fuel filters. Cruising at 78 MPH the truck start stuttering. About 45 minutes later started doing again but this time I was hearing a noise behind me like a high frequency vibrating noise. Pulled over shut down, and opened drain on Stage 1 and fuel looked perfectly fine. Continued 4 hours driving to my destination. Next day drove 7 hours no problem. Next day started stuttering again, and quit and 15 minutes later started again and worse. Pulled over and hit drain again, no problem. Let sit 10 minutes and continued drive for 3 hours back to home. No warnings or anything at any time shown.

Got back to my shop, after this 3000 mile trip, and pulled filters to inspect and both are fine. I re-primed two cycles to get the low pressure to go away and ran 3 cycle to make sure air was purged and there is random high pitch noise.

Link that follows is video to hear noise.
Noise After Priming

Took long drive, 30 minute, to see if air just need to be further purged by getting return to tank instead of recirculating through Stage 1 Filter. When done checked and the noise is still occurring. Noise After Driving

I originally was thinking this could be a fuel pump issue with what I heard on first day of stuttering. After reading your link I'm thinking there is a problem with Lift Pump. Am I on right track? Any other things I might check before just taking into the Dealer. On the phone they were suggesting they would would have to reproduce problem which could be impossible.
 

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Your link to the fuel system is Awesome!

I am trying to troubleshoot a problem that started after over 1600 miles into a trip after changing the fuel filters. Cruising at 78 MPH the truck start stuttering. About 45 minutes later started doing again but this time I was hearing a noise behind me like a high frequency vibrating noise. Pulled over shut down, and opened drain on Stage 1 and fuel looked perfectly fine. Continued 4 hours driving to my destination. Next day drove 7 hours no problem. Next day started stuttering again, and quit and 15 minutes later started again and worse. Pulled over and hit drain again, no problem. Let sit 10 minutes and continued drive for 3 hours back to home. No warnings or anything at any time shown.

Got back to my shop, after this 3000 mile trip, and pulled filters to inspect and both are fine. I re-primed two cycles to get the low pressure to go away and ran 3 cycle to make sure air was purged and there is random high pitch noise.

Link that follows is video to hear noise.
Noise After Priming

Took long drive, 30 minute, to see if air just need to be further purged by getting return to tank instead of recirculating through Stage 1 Filter. When done checked and the noise is still occurring. Noise After Driving

I originally was thinking this could be a fuel pump issue with what I heard on first day of stuttering. After reading your link I'm thinking there is a problem with Lift Pump. Am I on right track? Any other things I might check before just taking into the Dealer. On the phone they were suggesting they would would have to reproduce problem which could be impossible.
Correction to my own post: The Noise After Drive was actually just noise after starting and running for 5 minutes while on rack. I did still here some noise after drive yesterday. This morning after putting fresh fuel in and driving about 15 minutes you can still hear it a little bit. Felt the canister and doesn't appear to be fully warm yet. So maybe noise is related to re-circulation mode. New Noise

Anyone have this stuttering happen to them? What was issue? Sure seams fuel related to me but haven't found any issue to put my finger on.
 

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Sounds like something is definitely wrong... like air getting in or fuel being pumped past an obstruction (assuming you're talking about all the sputtering noises). I'd get it looked at asap. The buzzing might be the lift pump struggling or going bad? Not sure...

Get it looked at.
 

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Just finished my first fuel filter change. This is my first diesel.
Spent time sifting through the forums and looked at every YouTube video.

Got it done and have a few outstanding questions.

1) is there any specific order to complete this in? Seems like some do stage 2 first others do 1. I figured stage 1 is the least pure and change that first. I drained. Changed. Primed, check for leaks and start on stage 2.

2) I like some others had a lot of fuel drain from the purge valve. If any water was in there it didn't last but a few seconds. I got probably 1/4 a gallon before I finally said screw it and opened the filter housing. Got a little messy but proceeded. The instructions state wait until the purge valve stops draining. Some say trickle. I had a steady weak stream before I got inpatient. Was there any problems with me just proceeding? And what was left when I cracked open the canister when it poured out was that what would have been left in the system to come out of the valve?

I saw some back and forth on if having less than 1/4 tank is a benefit (someone said full has more pressure on the valve) and what incline to be parked on. Does this actually help?

3) I received my stage 1 filter with broken tabs from shipping damage. One of the 3 top tabs was broke. And a piece of the bottom lip. I proceeded with the install as the truck really needed it and I didn't know when the truck was last done (just bought it and it needs a little catch up maintenance). Now that I'm overthinking myself was this ok. I'm concerned about contaminants now from the broken tabs. I think the Amazon seller is going to send me a new one anyway. Can I just run this filter the way it is for 10k or should I really replace it again because of the tabs?

4) had a little difficulty with stage 2 filter. Unscrewed the cap and it sprayed fuel a little (was I missing a step?) And the housing remained full. Ioved straight from priming the system after changing stage 1 and running my truck to confirm no leaks to changing stage 2 filter. It wasn't until I re read the directions that said the housing will drain when being unscrewed so I just rescrewed the cap and even slower (grammar?) Unscrewed it and it seemed to drain properly.

5) last question. Really Stoopid one. I assume the fuel pump primes every time the truck is in on/ and before it starts? Never really paid attention until now. I had my truck in the on position a few minutes ago working on programming my scangauge ii and noticed the fuel pump doing it's thing for the first 90 seconds and heard some gurlging like it still had work to be done. When I primed after both filters I primed maybe overkill 4 times even though the after stage 1 the pressure warning went away after two primes. And actually I never got a low pressure warning after changing the stage 2 filter.


Ok fingers hurt. Just wanted to clarify these things. Thanks for the help in advance. This was pretty easy to do overall.
1st time I changed Stage 1 filter 10,000 miles schedule, on Water Separator when I opened drain I waited for a couple of gallons despite what the Maintenance Manual tells, Open and drain till no water. Since it never stopped streaming fuel out I waited until the tank was near empty and changed it. This time at 20K same thing. Anti-Siphon valve not working as expected. I talked to someone online who told me he is a Cummins Mech and He told me the anti-siphon never works..drain for 20 seconds and remove bowl. He told me that once the filter is removed the fuel will stop as there is some sort of check ball that will stop the flow. Not wanting a garage full of diesel fuel I am taking it to the dealer service center to see what they tell me and then seeing if they change it or prove it works after a initial drain of 20 seconds. If not I will do as I did last time and wait till I get a low fuel warning light.
 

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Just finished my first fuel filter change. This is my first diesel.
Spent time sifting through the forums and looked at every YouTube video.

Got it done and have a few outstanding questions.

1) is there any specific order to complete this in? Seems like some do stage 2 first others do 1. I figured stage 1 is the least pure and change that first. I drained. Changed. Primed, check for leaks and start on stage 2.

2) I like some others had a lot of fuel drain from the purge valve. If any water was in there it didn't last but a few seconds. I got probably 1/4 a gallon before I finally said screw it and opened the filter housing. Got a little messy but proceeded. The instructions state wait until the purge valve stops draining. Some say trickle. I had a steady weak stream before I got inpatient. Was there any problems with me just proceeding? And what was left when I cracked open the canister when it poured out was that what would have been left in the system to come out of the valve?

I saw some back and forth on if having less than 1/4 tank is a benefit (someone said full has more pressure on the valve) and what incline to be parked on. Does this actually help?

3) I received my stage 1 filter with broken tabs from shipping damage. One of the 3 top tabs was broke. And a piece of the bottom lip. I proceeded with the install as the truck really needed it and I didn't know when the truck was last done (just bought it and it needs a little catch up maintenance). Now that I'm overthinking myself was this ok. I'm concerned about contaminants now from the broken tabs. I think the Amazon seller is going to send me a new one anyway. Can I just run this filter the way it is for 10k or should I really replace it again because of the tabs?

4) had a little difficulty with stage 2 filter. Unscrewed the cap and it sprayed fuel a little (was I missing a step?) And the housing remained full. Ioved straight from priming the system after changing stage 1 and running my truck to confirm no leaks to changing stage 2 filter. It wasn't until I re read the directions that said the housing will drain when being unscrewed so I just rescrewed the cap and even slower (grammar?) Unscrewed it and it seemed to drain properly.

5) last question. Really Stoopid one. I assume the fuel pump primes every time the truck is in on/ and before it starts? Never really paid attention until now. I had my truck in the on position a few minutes ago working on programming my scangauge ii and noticed the fuel pump doing it's thing for the first 90 seconds and heard some gurlging like it still had work to be done. When I primed after both filters I primed maybe overkill 4 times even though the after stage 1 the pressure warning went away after two primes. And actually I never got a low pressure warning after changing the stage 2 filter.


Ok fingers hurt. Just wanted to clarify these things. Thanks for the help in advance. This was pretty easy to do overall.
I always drain the one under the truck and then start with that one first then do the one under the hood. Prime it twice and she is good to go
 
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