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Discussion Starter #1
Folks,

One thing that has bothered me from the start it the steering rattle/clunking in the steering column while turning left slightly or just tooling around in a bumpy parking lot. So I decided to take matters in my own hands. Had the wife sit in the seat while holding our daughter and turned the wheel back and forth with the front wheels pointed slightly left of center. You can clearly hear the clunking. Everything from the column down to the universal at the steering box was tight. So were the idler and Pittman arm joints, as well as tie rod ends...all zero slop. Then I got a closer look, the dang lower mainshaft from the steering box is walking about .030 of and inch side to side (verified by a dial indicator). Not enough to start leaking because the seals are new, but still not cool. So clearly the bearing preload wasn't correct or the machining is off. Gonna chat with the service department tomorrow and see what they can get ordered. Explains why some folks had no luck with column swaps, apparently it's in the steering box.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Also a little info from the service manual...maximum allowable play is .004

So mine is clearly bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Tracks perfect other than to loose feeling in the steering wheel and wandering is very slight. I think .015 each direction is a fair amount as well to not see a leak, but looking at the seal, it's got a decent lip on it. I actually had a wood block laying around I sized up to wedge against the pitman arm and secured the pitman arm against the block and frame with a cargo strap to really isolate the movement down (for those playing along at home, engine off and remains off during the troubleshooting). It became evident pretty quick once I knew nothing else was moving, it's not easy seeing the amount of free play with the eye since your staring at it from an angle, but once I tossed an indicator on there, it cleared things up quick along with still hearing the clunking while it was being turned back and forth.
 

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Very interesting, and good find.

Mine seems to be loose sometimes with only 5k miles on it. But it tracks and drives straight.
 

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Seen your u tube video from awhile back about the rpm fluter around 1750 rpm. How did you ever make out with that? Before i deleted i would regularly have my scanner hooked up watching live data and i did notice the egr valve was always closed at idle and when you would rev the engine that was the exact rpm the egr valve starts opening. Just curious as would your fix was
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Seen your u tube video from awhile back about the rpm fluter around 1750 rpm. How did you ever make out with that? Before i deleted i would regularly have my scanner hooked up watching live data and i did notice the egr valve was always closed at idle and when you would rev the engine that was the exact rpm the egr valve starts opening. Just curious as would your fix was
As soon as I had the latest ECU flash for the throttle delay I couldn't duplicate it. I didn't get an indication of the EGR opening until driving in a forward gear under light to moderate load conditions, once you hammer down, it closes for max power according to EZ Lynk. It was odd, I couldn't tell if it was the RTC freaking out under an unknown load or TM trying to jocky for position while cold. It went away as the engine came up to operating temperature. A lot to learn in the control side of this combo yet. I might try and ask EZ Lynk for a login to view since I hold a few stream licenses for EFILive. I won't be editing, just viewing the different parameters in this ECU. I've been sending an email or two to Kory @ PPEI for some clarification and some info on incorporating the exhaust brake/throttle that might be nice for those who want a touch more "slow ya down" under coast down. If ya don't ask, it'll never happen;)
 

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I've got same issues with steering(very annoying), I knew immediately it was the gear box but dealership can't replicate it....
 

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Folks,

One thing that has bothered me from the start it the steering rattle/clunking in the steering column while turning left slightly or just tooling around in a bumpy parking lot. So I decided to take matters in my own hands. Had the wife sit in the seat while holding our daughter and turned the wheel back and forth with the front wheels pointed slightly left of center. You can clearly hear the clunking. Everything from the column down to the universal at the steering box was tight. So were the idler and Pittman arm joints, as well as tie rod ends...all zero slop. Then I got a closer look, the dang lower mainshaft from the steering box is walking about .030 of and inch side to side (verified by a dial indicator). Not enough to start leaking because the seals are new, but still not cool. So clearly the bearing preload wasn't correct or the machining is off. Gonna chat with the service department tomorrow and see what they can get ordered. Explains why some folks had no luck with column swaps, apparently it's in the steering box.
While I appreciate you taking the time to find this I really believe this is jsut serious overkill in your part buddy. I think its important to understand these issues but the level that you go to here is in many ways the reason why we get a bad name. To much nitpicking causes a lot of unnecessary bull withthe community and the service department. Address your concern but don?t make into a show.
 

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While I appreciate you taking the time to find this I really believe this is jsut serious overkill in your part buddy. I think its important to understand these issues but the level that you go to here is in many ways the reason why we get a bad name. To much nitpicking causes a lot of unnecessary bull withthe community and the service department. Address your concern but don?t make into a show.

The level he has went to has proven there is oem equipment that is out of tolerance and therefore causing problems with the steering gear box. What happened to American inguity leading the way for things to be better?

I'm surprised you actually spent time to criticize his excellent work in taking initiative to figure this out.

I for one appreciate him sharing proof of what is actually going on.....

Wth is going on in this world? People are being critized for doing what's right.....
 

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Maybe he is the Nissan steering QC guy... Doesn't want and or need the cat out of the bag hahahha.
 
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So what does the dealership's service dept have to say about your clunking noise? Is the noise faint or very noticeable?
 

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I've got same issues with steering(very annoying), I knew immediately it was the gear box but dealership can't replicate it....
Why can't the dealership replace it, and when do you plan on getting it fixed? It must not be a very noticeable issue for you to let it go unrepaired.
 

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Why can't the dealership replace it, and when do you plan on getting it fixed? It must not be a very noticeable issue for you to let it go unrepaired.
Its very noticeable but only at certain times and seems mainly when its 85f or hotter. Since weather is cooler and dealership is an hour away I just can't slide on in and let them see it when its acting up. Trust me I will get this resolved and What has been found in this thread is great info as parts are out of tolerance.

I had this same issue with my last truck, thought I was getting rid of that.......sucks!
 

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Its very noticeable but only at certain times and seems mainly when its 85f or hotter. Since weather is cooler and dealership is an hour away I just can't slide on in and let them see it when its acting up. Trust me I will get this resolved and What has been found in this thread is great info as parts are out of tolerance.

I had this same issue with my last truck, thought I was getting rid of that.......sucks!
Are dealerships the only ones who are authorized to do warranty work? Due to the distance it might be possible to have an authorized shop that's closer to fix it.
Only say this because independent bike shops can do warranty work on H-Ds w/o problem, but that's the bike world and not the car/trk world.
 

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Are dealerships the only ones who are authorized to do warranty work? Due to the distance it might be possible to have an authorized shop that's closer to fix it.
Only say this because independent bike shops can do warranty work on H-Ds w/o problem, but that's the bike world and not the car/trk world.

Not happening with nissan!
 
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