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Nissan Titan XD - How To Delete and Tune – EZLynk w/HPP tunes

I thought I would do a write up on the steps to deleting the XD since specific instructions don’t seem to exist. The installation is fairly easy but there are a few things I will instruct you to do that will make sure the process goes smoothly and without issues.

Now I purchased my EZLynk with HPP tunes and Flo-Pro Delete pipe from Jon Long at openwideperformance.com. Not only did Jon give me a great deal on the parts but his support was excellent and he was immediately available when I contacted him on a Sunday afternoon when HPP was closed for the weekend.

The EZLynk unit came with the following cables:

Auto Agent Controller cable
This connector has an Ethernet connection on one end and it splits that connection to 2 other connectors. One of those connectors is the OBD port connector and the other is a female USB connector that the unlock cable connects into.

The unlock cable
This cable has (2) parts to it that will connect together
The main piece has a USB cable on one end and the other end is a male 3 prong connector.
The 2nd piece to the cable is what is specific to the Titan XD. On one end the cable has the matching female 3 prong connector to the first cable and the other end is a triangular shaped barrel connector that plugs into the diagnose port under the hood of the truck.

SOFT Switch
This cable is basically a rotary knob with 3 wires coming from it and the end of the wires there are 3 metal terminals connected to it. There is a plastic connector included that you slide the metal terminals into the connector. Note! Do not assemble the connector before installing this cable.

You will need to remove the plastic panel that is under the steering wheel of the truck which also houses a switch panel cluster to the left of the Steering wheel. There are 2 screws to remove on the bottom of this panel on each end. The top of the panel snaps in so very careful pull the top of the panel straight outward towards you. It doesn’t take too much pressure to release these tabs so do not pry or reef on this or you will break the tabs that hold the top in.

Once the panel is released you will need to drill a 3/8” hole in this panel to mount the SOFT switch. There is also a 1/8th inch alignment hole you have to drill above the hole you drilled for the shaft of the switch. There is an adhesive template with the switch that will guide you to drilling the holes accurately.

When mounting the switch be careful to not loose keeper that is between the switch. Otherwise the knob will be able to be rotated 360 degrees. If this keeper falls out there is a tab on it and make sure that the tap gets put back into the 5 position.

Once mounted now you will run this cable through the firewall into the engine bay. You don’t have to drill a hole in the firewall. If you follow the cable for the hood latch release all the way to the firewall from under the dash you can access a rubber access port that you can remove. You will need to pull back some of the carpet and felt to get to it. Also make sure you put the included wire loom on the wires before you run the wires. It is helpful to use a fish wire or a wire hanger to pull the wires through into the engine bay. Pull these wires through to the side of the engine next to the air intake box.

Once this is complete then install the included connector. The connector is marked for the corresponding wire color red, black, and white. Insert the metal connector on the wire end straight into the plastic connector until it clicks. Now make sure you are inserting the correct color wire into the connector because you have only 1 shot at getting it right.

The connection that this connector plugs into is easy to access. Find the Oil Fill spout and follow it downward about 8 inches and you will see a connection and you will disconnect the wire from it and you will plug into the SOFT connector. Once done neatly route the wires and zip tie them back toward the firewall where the wire came through. Make sure the wires are not routed near anything that will get hot and melt the wire.

Now installing the unlock cable you will run the wires from the engine bay into the cab of the truck through the same hole in the firewall as you used to pull the SOFT cable through.
On the other side of the engine bay on the passenger side look for the fuse box. At the base of the front of the fuse box there is a triangular shaped barrel connector with a cap on the end of it. Remove the cap and plug in the short part of the unlock cable into it. Now route the cable around the fuse box and connect the second part of the unlock cable.

Now using your fish wire tape it to the USB connector and fish it through the same hole that you pulled the SOFT cable through into the cab of the vehicle. Once this is complete zip tie the unlock cable in the engine bay to the wire bundle that is the back of the firewall above the engine. Again make sure the wires are far away from anything hot to avoid the wires from melting.

Now that the wires are ran plug everything into the controller under dash and secure it with zip ties. Also bundle up excess wire length neatly out of the way so nothing can catch on the wires under the dash.

Programming the EZLynk Controller – Part 1

Once the EZLynk is installed and connected download the app to your phone. If you haven’t yet done so create your login to EZLynk cloud from your computer as you will need to enter this info during the EZLynk configuration. Launch the app and follow the step by step instructions. You will be instructed to connect to the EZLynk Auto Agent’s WiFi network. Once this is done you will enter in your username and password that you created for the EZLynk Cloud login. Once you are linked you can start the truck and the engine digital gauges will be activated. Now we haven’t yet installed your tune. I recommend taking a little drive and just watch the gauges to make sure everything is working properly.

Remove DPF and Catalytic Converter
Disconnect all of the connections to the unit. The front rear sensors do not need to be removed from the DPF/Cat and they have a few components and are connected to a bracket that is fastened to the frame. It’s easiest to remove the bracket so you can unplug the sensors. Remove the DEF fluid connector by squeezing the 2 tabs on the side of the connector with a pair of channel locks. This isn’t difficult to remove but be careful not to pry or damage this connector.

Remove all of the bolts of the DPF/CAT from the down pipe (front of the unit) and the middle section of the unit. Remove the front part of the DPF first and it will easily drop right out with little to no resistance. The Rear part the unit is a little more difficult to remove and it’s easiest to first disconnect and remove the CAT Back tail pipe. Again this part of the exhaust is easily removed with little resistance.

Now slide the rubber hangers that are holding the CAT in place as far forward as you can get them and remove the CAT. This is the most difficult part in this process and I highly advise to have someone help you. Once DPF/CAT is removed put small plastic bags over all of the connections that you disconnected and zip tie them to seal out the elements and then zip tie everything between the frame and the cab of the truck as far away from exhaust components as you can.

Install the Delete Pipe
This part is easy as long as you have someone helping you. First install the front section of the delete pipe to the Engine downpipe using the original gasket. Note that fitting is not symmetrical so make sure you have the pipe and gasket properly oriented when installing. Go ahead and secure this pip with the nuts and bolts provided with the Flo Pro kit. I highly recommend applying a little bit Anti-Seize to the bolts. On the other end of the pipe install the pipe coupler but do not tighten it yet.

Next install the second piece of the pipe but first put a little grease the hanger prongs on the pipe. This will make inserting them into the rubber hangers much easier. Insert the pipe into the hangers and the coupler at the same time. Now using a block of wood and mallet tap on the end of the pipe to force the pipe all the way into the coupler and then tighten down the bolts on the coupler.

Now install the CAT Back tail pipe into the hanger and coupler and tighten down all of the bolts. Next if you have an exhaust tip you can install it now. I installed a 12” tip which is the perfect length. I cut approximately 8” of the stock tail pipe off and the exhaust tip neatly slid in place and was secured with 1 bolt.

Download and Install your tune package
Do not start your vehicle yet and keep ignition off. Despite the ignition being off the Auto agent still has power to it and your phone will communicate with it. In the EZLynk app download your tunes.

For HPP tunes you will see 3 tunes in the menu.
HPP 1.2, Return Vehicle to Stock Tune, and HPP 1.42.

Download the 1.4.2 tune and while its downloading turn on your 4-way flashers. Follow the instruction on your phone through the app and it will tell you to turn on the ignition. Now there is ACC and On, know the distinction and this is very important to follow these steps very carefully. The Auto agent will back up your factory tune, and then delete it from your computer and its final step is uploading your tune to the computer. If you see a percentage continue to increase you have done everything correctly. Once it finishes you will be instructed to start your truck.

If the Installation fails don’t freak out! Just unplug the EZLynk Auto Agent from its Ethernet connection despite the app telling you not to do so. Once you do this reconnect to the app and follow the above steps again. It failed on me the first time and it was successful the second attempt.

SOFT Adjustment
I initially set on number 4 tune and once I fired up the truck and backed it out of the drive way it was already apparent that the truck felt different. With straight exhaust you will immediately hear the turbo and when you mash the accelerator your truck will sound like its jet powered. On tune 4 it will throw some black smoke when you mash the pedal but this is to be expected with the additional fueling from the tune. The increase in power is very apparent and like everyone says and it’s true, it’s a different truck.
 

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Awesome write up, thank you for taking the time to write it. I will definitely be referring to this when I do mine. Also when are they going to add a DIY/tutorial section to the forum?
 

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I am not certain but it may put the the computer in write mode. All I can say is its important because the flash failed the first time for me and Jon @ Openwideperformance instructed me to do this and it was successful the second time I tried it.
 

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originally the 4 way flashers needed to be on the keep the push button ignition from timing out, however ezlyink has updated the system for the titan and that step is no longer needed. you will see the service 4x4 message appear and some other warning lights blinking.
 

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I like it 2Fast, good write up.
 

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Thank you guys but make no mistake in assuming that since I wrote this that I am any expert on this. I am just simply sharing my experience with this project and I often learn as I go.

Don't be afraid to take the plunge, if your even somewhat good with a set of tools you can do this yourself. It really wasn't hard at all. Last year I wrote a write-up on installing a Rough Country 6" lift kit. Now that was a tough job and I am not sure I would ever do that again.
 

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I used 2fast4thelaw's write up this weekend to do my install. Great write and makes it a simple job 1 person can do in a few hours. I am a visual person so I though I would add some more pictures to his write up.


I thought I would do a write up on the steps to deleting the XD since specific instructions don’t seem to exist. The installation is fairly easy but there are a few things I will instruct you to do that will make sure the process goes smoothly and without issues.

Now I purchased my EZLynk with HPP tunes and Flo-Pro Delete pipe from Jon Long at openwideperformance.com. Not only did Jon give me a great deal on the parts but his support was excellent and he was immediately available when I contacted him on a Sunday afternoon when HPP was closed for the weekend.

The EZLynk unit came with the following cables:

Auto Agent Controller cable
This connector has an Ethernet connection on one end and it splits that connection to 2 other connectors. One of those connectors is the OBD port connector and the other is a female USB connector that the unlock cable connects into.

The unlock cable
This cable has (2) parts to it that will connect together
The main piece has a USB cable on one end and the other end is a male 3 prong connector.
The 2nd piece to the cable is what is specific to the Titan XD. On one end the cable has the matching female 3 prong connector to the first cable and the other end is a triangular shaped barrel connector that plugs into the diagnose port under the hood of the truck.

SOFT Switch
This cable is basically a rotary knob with 3 wires coming from it and the end of the wires there are 3 metal terminals connected to it. There is a plastic connector included that you slide the metal terminals into the connector. Note! Do not assemble the connector before installing this cable.

You will need to remove the plastic panel that is under the steering wheel of the truck which also houses a switch panel cluster to the left of the Steering wheel. There are 2 screws to remove on the bottom of this panel on each end. The top of the panel snaps in so very careful pull the top of the panel straight outward towards you. It doesn’t take too much pressure to release these tabs so do not pry or reef on this or you will break the tabs that hold the top in.

Once the panel is released you will need to drill a 3/8” hole in this panel to mount the SOFT switch. There is also a 1/8th inch alignment hole you have to drill above the hole you drilled for the shaft of the switch. There is an adhesive template with the switch that will guide you to drilling the holes accurately.

When mounting the switch be careful to not loose keeper that is between the switch. Otherwise the knob will be able to be rotated 360 degrees. If this keeper falls out there is a tab on it and make sure that the tap gets put back into the 5 position. .

3 clips holding the panel in place on the left. 2 clips on the right.







I mounted my switch next to the steering column.









I had to trim a little off the clip to make the switch fit. Mounting the switch a little lower would avoid this.











Once mounted now you will run this cable through the firewall into the engine bay. You don’t have to drill a hole in the firewall. If you follow the cable for the hood latch release all the way to the firewall from under the dash you can access a rubber access port that you can remove. You will need to pull back some of the carpet and felt to get to it. Also make sure you put the included wire loom on the wires before you run the wires. It is helpful to use a fish wire or a wire hanger to pull the wires through into the engine bay. Pull these wires through to the side of the engine next to the air intake box.

Once this is complete then install the included connector. The connector is marked for the corresponding wire color red, black, and white. Insert the metal connector on the wire end straight into the plastic connector until it clicks. Now make sure you are inserting the correct color wire into the connector because you have only 1 shot at getting it right.

The connection that this connector plugs into is easy to access. Find the Oil Fill spout and follow it downward about 8 inches and you will see a connection and you will disconnect the wire from it and you will plug into the SOFT connector. Once done neatly route the wires and zip tie them back toward the firewall where the wire came through. Make sure the wires are not routed near anything that will get hot and melt the wire.

Now installing the unlock cable you will run the wires from the engine bay into the cab of the truck through the same hole in the firewall as you used to pull the SOFT cable through.
On the other side of the engine bay on the passenger side look for the fuse box. At the base of the front of the fuse box there is a triangular shaped barrel connector with a cap on the end of it. Remove the cap and plug in the short part of the unlock cable into it. Now route the cable around the fuse box and connect the second part of the unlock cable.

Now using your fish wire tape it to the USB connector and fish it through the same hole that you pulled the SOFT cable through into the cab of the vehicle. Once this is complete zip tie the unlock cable in the engine bay to the wire bundle that is the back of the firewall above the engine. Again make sure the wires are far away from anything hot to avoid the wires from melting.

Now that the wires are ran plug everything into the controller under dash and secure it with zip ties. Also bundle up excess wire length neatly out of the way so nothing can catch on the wires under the dash.

I ran my wires along the top edge.









Programming the EZLynk Controller – Part 1

Once the EZLynk is installed and connected download the app to your phone. If you haven’t yet done so create your login to EZLynk cloud from your computer as you will need to enter this info during the EZLynk configuration. Launch the app and follow the step by step instructions. You will be instructed to connect to the EZLynk Auto Agent’s WiFi network. Once this is done you will enter in your username and password that you created for the EZLynk Cloud login. Once you are linked you can start the truck and the engine digital gauges will be activated. Now we haven’t yet installed your tune. I recommend taking a little drive and just watch the gauges to make sure everything is working properly.

EZLynk box zip tied up under the dash.





Remove DPF and Catalytic Converter
Disconnect all of the connections to the unit. The front rear sensors do not need to be removed from the DPF/Cat and they have a few components and are connected to a bracket that is fastened to the frame. It’s easiest to remove the bracket so you can unplug the sensors. Remove the DEF fluid connector by squeezing the 2 tabs on the side of the connector with a pair of channel locks. This isn’t difficult to remove but be careful not to pry or damage this connector.

Remove all of the bolts of the DPF/CAT from the down pipe (front of the unit) and the middle section of the unit. Remove the front part of the DPF first and it will easily drop right out with little to no resistance. The Rear part the unit is a little more difficult to remove and it’s easiest to first disconnect and remove the CAT Back tail pipe. Again this part of the exhaust is easily removed with little resistance.

Now slide the rubber hangers that are holding the CAT in place as far forward as you can get them and remove the CAT. This is the most difficult part in this process and I highly advise to have someone help you. Once DPF/CAT is removed put small plastic bags over all of the connections that you disconnected and zip tie them to seal out the elements and then zip tie everything between the frame and the cab of the truck as far away from exhaust components as you can.



The two sensor brackets that are mounted to the frame.






DEF filter and cat removed








Left over plugs from sensors zipped tied to the frame










Install the Delete Pipe
This part is easy as long as you have someone helping you. First install the front section of the delete pipe to the Engine downpipe using the original gasket. Note that fitting is not symmetrical so make sure you have the pipe and gasket properly oriented when installing. Go ahead and secure this pip with the nuts and bolts provided with the Flo Pro kit. I highly recommend applying a little bit Anti-Seize to the bolts. On the other end of the pipe install the pipe coupler but do not tighten it yet.

Next install the second piece of the pipe but first put a little grease the hanger prongs on the pipe. This will make inserting them into the rubber hangers much easier. Insert the pipe into the hangers and the coupler at the same time. Now using a block of wood and mallet tap on the end of the pipe to force the pipe all the way into the coupler and then tighten down the bolts on the coupler.

Now install the CAT Back tail pipe into the hanger and coupler and tighten down all of the bolts. Next if you have an exhaust tip you can install it now. I installed a 12” tip which is the perfect length. I cut approximately 8” of the stock tail pipe off and the exhaust tip neatly slid in place and was secured with 1 bolt.

Download and Install your tune package
Do not start your vehicle yet and keep ignition off. Despite the ignition being off the Auto agent still has power to it and your phone will communicate with it. In the EZLynk app download your tunes.

For HPP tunes you will see 3 tunes in the menu.
HPP 1.2, Return Vehicle to Stock Tune, and HPP 1.42.

Download the 1.4.2 tune and while its downloading turn on your 4-way flashers. Follow the instruction on your phone through the app and it will tell you to turn on the ignition. Now there is ACC and On, know the distinction and this is very important to follow these steps very carefully. The Auto agent will back up your factory tune, and then delete it from your computer and its final step is uploading your tune to the computer. If you see a percentage continue to increase you have done everything correctly. Once it finishes you will be instructed to start your truck.

If the Installation fails don’t freak out! Just unplug the EZLynk Auto Agent from its Ethernet connection despite the app telling you not to do so. Once you do this reconnect to the app and follow the above steps again. It failed on me the first time and it was successful the second attempt.

SOFT Adjustment
I initially set on number 4 tune and once I fired up the truck and backed it out of the drive way it was already apparent that the truck felt different. With straight exhaust you will immediately hear the turbo and when you mash the accelerator your truck will sound like its jet powered. On tune 4 it will throw some black smoke when you mash the pedal but this is to be expected with the additional fueling from the tune. The increase in power is very apparent and like everyone says and it’s true, it’s a different truck.



Truck sounds great. Didn't add much engine rumble,but you can really hear the turbo now. That is exactly what I wanted. Peddlefeels much more responsive and when you step on it the truck sounds like a jet.This weekend will be my first time out with the camper, I’ll report back if Isee any gas savings.
 

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Is there any option from any of the tuning companies for a turbo timer add-on?

And what I mean by that is, after shutting the truck off, it will continue to idle for a set amount of time to allow the turbos to cool down.

I’ve had one on a few turbo cars back in the day, but I was curious if this was an option.

And before the naysaying begins, even the manual says allow the truck to idle for 3-5 minutes to prolong turbocharger life, etc etc.

Thanks guys- looking forward to a delete.
 

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Is there any option from any of the tuning companies for a turbo timer add-on?

And what I mean by that is, after shutting the truck off, it will continue to idle for a set amount of time to allow the turbos to cool down.

I’ve had one on a few turbo cars back in the day, but I was curious if this was an option.

And before the naysaying begins, even the manual says allow the truck to idle for 3-5 minutes to prolong turbocharger life, etc etc.

Thanks guys- looking forward to a delete.
Everything I have read on the internet as far as EGT temps when shutting the truck off is temps between 250 and 375 degrees and this is from Ford, GM, RAM forums since that is the only reference I have been able to find. I have an EGT gauge in my deleted truck (HPP) with the probe in the drivers exhaust manifold. My experience is that even pulling my 5th wheel on the highway with the egt temps running at 750 to 850 by the time I slow down, get off the Interstate and stop at the end of the offramp my temps are down to 300, they fluctuate a bit till I get to a gas station and then 30 seconds of idling will drop them to 225 where it pretty much hangs out all the time at idle.
 

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That’s actually all really good info- thanks for that!

I’m actually more concerned with getting the turbo temps down lower versus just the EGTs.
 

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That’s actually all really good info- thanks for that!

I’m actually more concerned with getting the turbo temps down lower versus just the EGTs.
Sorry I misunderstood. Based on research it seems the consensus is if your driving around town under normal conditions that turbo cool down is not needed but if your working the engine hard you should let it cool down up to 3-4 minutes depending on how hard you are working it and how high your egt's have gotten. I let mine idle for a minute at least after normal driving and 4-5 minutes when I pull my RV before I shut down just to be safe.
 

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Is there any option from any of the tuning companies for a turbo timer add-on?

And what I mean by that is, after shutting the truck off, it will continue to idle for a set amount of time to allow the turbos to cool down.

I’ve had one on a few turbo cars back in the day, but I was curious if this was an option.

And before the naysaying begins, even the manual says allow the truck to idle for 3-5 minutes to prolong turbocharger life, etc etc.

Thanks guys- looking forward to a delete.

You don't see turbo timers because you really don't need one. You could simply idle the engine a few minutes after. But unless your doing long Hill pulls you won't be seeing crazy high temps.

Even after a long haul you are usually backing in and getting parked. You are letting the engine and turbo cool off at that time.

But if you really want one there are lots of universal timers out there.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Excellent writeup for installation.

Picture of firewall boot and additional information for EZ LYNK auto agent 2.0.
2.0 unlock cable attaches to dongle off of OBD connector.
I installed SOTF switch in switch cluster in dash. This required some milling of the blanking plate and switch housing.
I did add Aero Exhaust - TurbineXL AT4040XL Performance Muffler 4". Excellent quality muffler and sound.
As stated before. I got a completely different truck after installation.
Consistent MPG 13 prior and first run (65 miles highway) appears to be closer to 18 MPG.
More to follow.


Thanks John Long and HPP
 

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So I have a question about ezlynk for you guys that have experience with it. When it backs up your factory settings where is it stored? I'm wondering what happens if ezlynk goes **** up and you have to restore your factory tune.
 
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