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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Gonna make this pretty lengthy as time goes on. Mainly because I can't stand various noises on a brand new truck. So the Following list is only a start, this will have pictures (eventually) and How-To's I've found to solve the most irritating of the bunch, while cruising the open road.

Front-end Rattles and Squeaks:

1) Hood Latch: the most notorious rattle on the truck.
Take your palm and smack on the top of the hood where it meets the grill (don't dent the thing). If you can here a banging your going to need to adjust the latch position. Before you touch the latch, look at the six rubber stoppers in the hood, are they all making contact (you'll see the rub spot)...if not, adjust the two that turn to raise and lower the resting point. If they are good there are just three bolts that you need to loosen to slide the latch mechanism in any direction (do not remove the bolts, just loose enough for it to slide). TAKE A PICTURE with your phone for a reference position. Make sure that when you adjust it, make sure as you bring the hood down to test fitment that it's centered. Only adjust about an 1/16 down at a time until the point when you close the hood and palm hit the area where it meets the grill, it doesn't rattle. You'll know trust me. Had this problem going down the road and hitting bumps in the road and made a racket. Pretty easy right.

2) Inner fender well inserts:
Factory mounts are pretty sparse and cause a tapping sound from the fender area. Where the two pieces come together in the corner, you'll see they make contact when you tap on the liners. Snag some rubbing alcohol and clean one spot in the area where they meet. Use some 1/4in. self-adhesive foam pad (cut a 1in long x 1/2in. piece). I cut up some soft foam pipe wrap I had laying around. Cures that oversight.

3) Vehicle Dynamic Control Module:
Next to the Brake reservoir on the driver's side you'll see a shiny aluminum box with fins. Tap on the top of the unit...if it rattles, grab the back side (toward the firewall side and toward the fender or side without the wires coming out) and gentle pull out on the unit toward the brake reservoir just a touch. Tap on the unit from the top again to see if it was enough. The bracket was actually making contact with the module. (Might have been pushed out of position during assembly).

4) Skid Plate Bolts:
Under the truck, you have 4 bolts toward the front of the skid plate (Two on each side). Take note of the threaded inserts/clips under the skid plate (bumper side). Make sure that the clips are not making contact with the gray lower bumper sheet metal. The problem bolt is on the driver's side most forward bolt insert. The clip rotates toward the sheet metal making contact with the bumper (you'll probably notice a raised rub area on the sheet metal where it was making contact). Use a screw drivers or in my case, a small dowel when you tighten that forward bolt to keep the clip from swinging into the bumper. Easy fix. Also check the license plate mount for any vibration by palm smacking the skid plate while mounted. I flipped my holder upside down to open the air flow area into the oil cooler a bit and made a retaining plate for what is now the top of the plate holder so I have 4 fasteners in the holder and plate instead of two.

5) Lower bumper:
When you have said skid plate removed, palm smack the center lower area of the gray bumper portion. If it rattles like a SOB, grab the lower portion next to the doubled metal brackets and pull straight down a bit at a time until when you palm smack the center underneath, it doesn't rattle like mad.

6) Fog Light Assy:
The fog light modules under the truck are secured by two fasteners. Yet there is an empty stud poking through the mount that was either missed or they thought it wasn't necessary. So to solve another rattle after tapping on the module, I added a lock nut (M6x1.0 I think) to the stud. Problem Solved.

7) Driver's and Passenger's side hood baffles by wipers:
Found mine lose as heck, retainer pins and rubber pegs not fastened correctly so that find alone fixed the passenger side. Driver's side would tap against the fender bead roll. So I once again used a piece of soft self-adhesive foam and bent it around the metal where it made contact with the plastic baffle.

8) Passenger Forward Relay box:
Only has a few things inside, but tap it from the side and it sounds like parts are just bouncing around in there. If you take the cover off, you'll notice the forward most relay (although electrically secure) is not physically. I once again used a piece of foam tucked between the two relays to stop the turkey from wiggling around.

9) Steering shaft Loose/Rattle:
Waiting for an updated part (sector shaft) to fix the issue. When truck is off you can feel a bit of play, but oddly enough, is only really noticeable when making sweeping turns to the left and hitting small bumps while moving. More to come as I find them.


Now don't get me wrong, the truck overall is pretty good out of the gate fit and finish wise for the most part. I'm just extremely, well maybe a touch overly meticulous and there is no help for me;)

But as I find little issues here and there I'll post them to this topic. Just want to pass as much of this as possible. Hope this helps a few of ya'll.
 

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Gonna make this pretty lengthy as time goes on. Mainly because I can't stand various noises on a brand new truck. So the Following list is only a start, this will have pictures (eventually) and How-To's I've found to solve the most irritating of the bunch, while cruising the open road.

Front-end Rattles and Squeaks:

1) Hood Latch: the most notorious rattle on the truck.
Take your palm and smack on the top of the hood where it meets the grill (don't dent the thing). If you can here a banging your going to need to adjust the latch position. Before you touch the latch, look at the six rubber stoppers in the hood, are they all making contact (you'll see the rub spot)...if not, adjust the two that turn to raise and lower the resting point. If they are good there are just three bolts that you need to loosen to slide the latch mechanism in any direction (do not remove the bolts, just loose enough for it to slide). TAKE A PICTURE with your phone for a reference position. Make sure that when you adjust it, make sure as you bring the hood down to test fitment that it's centered. Only adjust about an 1/16 down at a time until the point when you close the hood and palm hit the area where it meets the grill, it doesn't rattle. You'll know trust me. Had this problem going down the road and hitting bumps in the road and made a racket. Pretty easy right.

2) Inner fender well inserts:
Factory mounts are pretty sparse and cause a tapping sound from the fender area. Where the two pieces come together in the corner, you'll see they make contact when you tap on the liners. Snag some rubbing alcohol and clean one spot in the area where they meet. Use some 1/4in. self-adhesive foam pad (cut a 1in long x 1/2in. piece). I cut up some soft foam pipe wrap I had laying around. Cures that oversight.

3) Vehicle Dynamic Control Module:
Next to the Brake reservoir on the driver's side you'll see a shiny aluminum box with fins. Tap on the top of the unit...if it rattles, grab the back side (toward the firewall side and toward the fender or side without the wires coming out) and gentle pull out on the unit toward the brake reservoir just a touch. Tap on the unit from the top again to see if it was enough. The bracket was actually making contact with the module. (Might have been pushed out of position during assembly).

4) Skid Plate Bolts:
Under the truck, you have 4 bolts toward the front of the skid plate (Two on each side). Take note of the threaded inserts/clips under the skid plate (bumper side). Make sure that the clips are not making contact with the gray lower bumper sheet metal. The problem bolt is on the driver's side most forward bolt insert. The clip rotates toward the sheet metal making contact with the bumper (you'll probably notice a raised rub area on the sheet metal where it was making contact). Use a screw drivers or in my case, a small dowel when you tighten that forward bolt to keep the clip from swinging into the bumper. Easy fix. Also check the license plate mount for any vibration by palm smacking the skid plate while mounted. I flipped my holder upside down to open the air flow area into the oil cooler a bit and made a retaining plate for what is now the top of the plate holder so I have 4 fasteners in the holder and plate instead of two.

5) Lower bumper:
When you have said skid plate removed, palm smack the center lower area of the gray bumper portion. If it rattles like a SOB, grab the lower portion next to the doubled metal brackets and pull straight down a bit at a time until when you palm smack the center underneath, it doesn't rattle like mad.

6) Fog Light Assy:
The fog light modules under the truck are secured by two fasteners. Yet there is an empty stud poking through the mount that was either missed or they thought it wasn't necessary. So to solve another rattle after tapping on the module, I added a lock nut (M6x1.0 I think) to the stud. Problem Solved.

7) Driver's and Passenger's side hood baffles by wipers:
Found mine lose as heck, retainer pins and rubber pegs not fastened correctly so that find alone fixed the passenger side. Driver's side would tap against the fender bead roll. So I once again used a piece of soft self-adhesive foam and bent it around the metal where it made contact with the plastic baffle.

8) Passenger Forward Relay box:
Only has a few things inside, but tap it from the side and it sounds like parts are just bouncing around in there. If you take the cover off, you'll notice the forward most relay (although electrically secure) is not physically. I once again used a piece of foam tucked between the two relays to stop the turkey from wiggling around.

9) Steering shaft Loose/Rattle:
Waiting for an updated part (sector shaft) to fix the issue. When truck is off you can feel a bit of play, but oddly enough, is only really noticeable when making sweeping turns to the left and hitting small bumps while moving. More to come as I find them.


Now don't get me wrong, the truck overall is pretty good out of the gate fit and finish wise for the most part. I'm just extremely, well maybe a touch overly meticulous and there is no help for me;)

But as I find little issues here and there I'll post them to this topic. Just want to pass as much of this as possible. Hope this helps a few of ya'll.



regarding #9 , I am experiencing the exact same thing. so the actual part that needs replacing is called the sector shaft? Glad to hear that the whole steering column doesn't need to be replaced.
 

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Very helpful as I am experiencing squeaking that is driving me nuts. I am very meticulous and have very high expectations. Does your paint seem thin on your truck? Does it have orange peel on the rear upper left corner of the box?
My sl gasser had the same "thin" paint in the same spot and my dealer had a body shop repaint the areas..
I think Nissan needs to adjust the robotics for paint application
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Very helpful as I am experiencing squeaking that is driving me nuts. I am very meticulous and have very high expectations. Does your paint seem thin on your truck? Does it have orange peel on the rear upper left corner of the box?
Yes the Orange peel is pretty bad at the corners of the tailgate and bedsides in the same vicinity, but getting nissan to go for paint is gonna be an uphill battle as most of the trucks out have the same issue. Best to mention it to the dealer to make it a record for any issues that may arise later into ownership to get it repaired under warranty. The base coat looks good, just the clear was applied too dry and thick which causes it to not flow, in the nissan factory video you can see that the tailgate travels with the truck when it goes to paint, but it's on risers above the bed at an angle. Looks like they could have designed a better method or changed the bot's programming a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
regarding #9 , I am experiencing the exact same thing. so the actual part that needs replacing is called the sector shaft? Glad to hear that the whole steering column doesn't need to be replaced.
Yes, it's the telescopic portion in the column that allows for in/out and up/down movement. Typically these assemblies have to have enough play to function, but not enough to feel it, which as I said as far as engineering, is always a PITA. Tolerances are always a moving target once production enters full swing and quality control measures are not every unit, but a few from each lot, machines wear, and things become just outside the spec. If they don't catch the deviation in time, you get our problem. Hopefully there may be a design change implemented to fix the issue in works.
 

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For the steering issue, how much play in the wheel are we talking? I definitely feel the occasional light rattle in the column as described. Seems more noticeable with two hands on the wheel.

Guess I'll have to document with the dealer and hope Nissan updates the part spec soon.
 

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Annoying rattle around the rear view mirror:

I have had an annoying rattle around the rear view mirror. Dealer never solved, but I isolated it to the plastic cover from the top of the window to the mirror. Fixed the rattle by placing a small piece of foam rubber between the window and the inside of the top of the cover near the window.
 

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Gonna make this pretty lengthy as time goes on. Mainly because I can't stand various noises on a brand new truck. So the Following list is only a start, this will have pictures (eventually) and How-To's I've found to solve the most irritating of the bunch, while cruising the open road.

Front-end Rattles and Squeaks:

1) Hood Latch: the most notorious rattle on the truck.
Take your palm and smack on the top of the hood where it meets the grill (don't dent the thing). If you can here a banging your going to need to adjust the latch position. Before you touch the latch, look at the six rubber stoppers in the hood, are they all making contact (you'll see the rub spot)...if not, adjust the two that turn to raise and lower the resting point. If they are good there are just three bolts that you need to loosen to slide the latch mechanism in any direction (do not remove the bolts, just loose enough for it to slide). TAKE A PICTURE with your phone for a reference position. Make sure that when you adjust it, make sure as you bring the hood down to test fitment that it's centered. Only adjust about an 1/16 down at a time until the point when you close the hood and palm hit the area where it meets the grill, it doesn't rattle. You'll know trust me. Had this problem going down the road and hitting bumps in the road and made a racket. Pretty easy right.

2) Inner fender well inserts:
Factory mounts are pretty sparse and cause a tapping sound from the fender area. Where the two pieces come together in the corner, you'll see they make contact when you tap on the liners. Snag some rubbing alcohol and clean one spot in the area where they meet. Use some 1/4in. self-adhesive foam pad (cut a 1in long x 1/2in. piece). I cut up some soft foam pipe wrap I had laying around. Cures that oversight.

3) Vehicle Dynamic Control Module:
Next to the Brake reservoir on the driver's side you'll see a shiny aluminum box with fins. Tap on the top of the unit...if it rattles, grab the back side (toward the firewall side and toward the fender or side without the wires coming out) and gentle pull out on the unit toward the brake reservoir just a touch. Tap on the unit from the top again to see if it was enough. The bracket was actually making contact with the module. (Might have been pushed out of position during assembly).

4) Skid Plate Bolts:
Under the truck, you have 4 bolts toward the front of the skid plate (Two on each side). Take note of the threaded inserts/clips under the skid plate (bumper side). Make sure that the clips are not making contact with the gray lower bumper sheet metal. The problem bolt is on the driver's side most forward bolt insert. The clip rotates toward the sheet metal making contact with the bumper (you'll probably notice a raised rub area on the sheet metal where it was making contact). Use a screw drivers or in my case, a small dowel when you tighten that forward bolt to keep the clip from swinging into the bumper. Easy fix. Also check the license plate mount for any vibration by palm smacking the skid plate while mounted. I flipped my holder upside down to open the air flow area into the oil cooler a bit and made a retaining plate for what is now the top of the plate holder so I have 4 fasteners in the holder and plate instead of two.

5) Lower bumper:
When you have said skid plate removed, palm smack the center lower area of the gray bumper portion. If it rattles like a SOB, grab the lower portion next to the doubled metal brackets and pull straight down a bit at a time until when you palm smack the center underneath, it doesn't rattle like mad.

6) Fog Light Assy:
The fog light modules under the truck are secured by two fasteners. Yet there is an empty stud poking through the mount that was either missed or they thought it wasn't necessary. So to solve another rattle after tapping on the module, I added a lock nut (M6x1.0 I think) to the stud. Problem Solved.

7) Driver's and Passenger's side hood baffles by wipers:
Found mine lose as heck, retainer pins and rubber pegs not fastened correctly so that find alone fixed the passenger side. Driver's side would tap against the fender bead roll. So I once again used a piece of soft self-adhesive foam and bent it around the metal where it made contact with the plastic baffle.

8) Passenger Forward Relay box:
Only has a few things inside, but tap it from the side and it sounds like parts are just bouncing around in there. If you take the cover off, you'll notice the forward most relay (although electrically secure) is not physically. I once again used a piece of foam tucked between the two relays to stop the turkey from wiggling around.

9) Steering shaft Loose/Rattle:
Waiting for an updated part (sector shaft) to fix the issue. When truck is off you can feel a bit of play, but oddly enough, is only really noticeable when making sweeping turns to the left and hitting small bumps while moving. More to come as I find them.


Now don't get me wrong, the truck overall is pretty good out of the gate fit and finish wise for the most part. I'm just extremely, well maybe a touch overly meticulous and there is no help for me;)

But as I find little issues here and there I'll post them to this topic. Just want to pass as much of this as possible. Hope this helps a few of ya'll.
Mine doesn't have the 6 rubber stoppers it only has 2 in the front. and my hood rattle's all the time.
 

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Mine doesn't have the 6 rubber stoppers it only has 2 in the front. and my hood rattle's all the time.
I also have 2 stoppers. But I don't know if that is apple to apple comparison since his is Pro-4X, mine is Platinum Reserve. Mine squeaks at the latch. I tried to loosen the 3 bolts and push the latch down as much as I could, then used lithium grease from time to time to ease on the squeaking noise.
 

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I also have 2 stoppers. But I don't know if that is apple to apple comparison since his is Pro-4X, mine is Platinum Reserve. Mine squeaks at the latch. I tried to loosen the 3 bolts and push the latch down as much as I could, then used lithium grease from time to time to ease on the squeaking noise.
DO YOU HAVE ANY PICTURES?
 

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I also have 2 stoppers. But I don't know if that is apple to apple comparison since his is Pro-4X, mine is Platinum Reserve. Mine squeaks at the latch. I tried to loosen the 3 bolts and push the latch down as much as I could, then used lithium grease from time to time to ease on the squeaking noise.
I lied. I see 5. Obviously, there is 1 missing.
 

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On the hood squeak issue, I kept adjusting my bumpers but they would eventually go back to a normal position and the hood would again squeak. But I came up with a nifty solution that has worked fantastic since doing it. I went to Ace hardware and bought some rubber chair leg tip caps. I think they were 3/4". but they may have been 1". Either way, just take a measurement of the diameter of the rubber hood stoppers and get that size. The rubber caps slip right over the top of the stock ones and create more cushion for the bumpers. I tried mine first by just slipping them on, then ended up gluing them on because I liked them (you can still remove them by pulling out the bumpers, I just glued the rubber tips to the OEM hood bumpers). It gives a little more resistance when closing the hood, but it wasn't an issue closing the hood - just gotta slam it a little harder. I have not had a hood rattle in 18 months since making this simple modification.

 
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