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Constructive criticism of an expensive custom built side bar for those that don't know any better, and will similarly spend their cash needlessly if a brief history lesson was not given earlier. The issues are minor due to OP's not rock crawling, but the bar is presumably meant to appear as one as it's a nonfunctional step bar. OP's reasoning for it is ludicrous. It's basically all show and no go for real deal functionality anyway one looks at it.

The brace welded underneath the square iron bars extending out from the frame should be welded on top of the bar, and not underneath. Reason being is the round bar being pushed upward from rocks encountered from below will have more resistance. The braces being below can be bent back and welds broken when getting rubbed by a bolder pushing up on this heavy truck.. Or leave the small lower brace's as they are, and add large upper braces to larger plates that attach to the frame. Other issues exist, but this is an all show and no go expensive build so who cares. Money in the wind for those that can afford it.

OP, just constructive criticism that newbies can learn from w/o otherwise getting all psyched out and blindly jumping feet first into an expensive custom build that's non-functional. They have to learn from somebody, and your the big kahuna on this one.
 

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Im just guessing but i dont think u have much experience with welding or bracing because in this situation that brace is as strong where it is as where you suggest it should be.
The reason being is the entire length of the steel is welded with steel that has a higher tensile strength than the base metals being used to biild the bar. If the brace bends it would bend on top or on bottom.
Im just guessing but it looks like at least 1/4" plate steel. Not likely to rip
Id bet the frame would buckle first.
 

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Im just guessing but i dont think u have much experience with welding or bracing because in this situation that brace is as strong where it is as where you suggest it should be.
The reason being is the entire length of the steel is welded with steel that has a higher tensile strength than the base metals being used to biild the bar. If the brace bends it would bend on top or on bottom.
Im just guessing but it looks like at least 1/4" plate steel. Not likely to rip
Id bet the frame would buckle first.
The XD's frame's buckling before that bar setup is only in your mind, and to express it as reality is just wrong. That Nerf bar setup will have given way before the frame gives a twitch to doing so. Btw, I knew about welding since taught in the 70's. You and other's who like the OP's bar, fine. The black paint does look goo. Bottom line is it's not on my truck, and that's all that matters on this end. Us guys when stationed in CA were all over those mountains so I know a little about what bars can and cannot do when 4 wheeling across the mountains rocky areas.

Your right about the 1/4" brace, and that is a good point brought to attention.
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
fshn16 said:
Like I said slick, I'll meet you in Ft Lauderdale if your innuendo to meet is a challenge. Otherwise learn to take criticism w/o flipping out like a ****.
Oooooh a PM, how cloak and dagger of you. Piece of advice for you, it is only you that decides if you are offended, triggered, or intimidated.

Also you cant BS a BSer, I have seen you in multiple threads trying to start stuff when everyone else is being constructive.

Also please please please start your own company in building things for the XD since your ideas are the only ideas. Thanks.
 

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The XD's frame's buckling before that bar setup is only in your mind, and to express it as reality is just wrong. That Nerf bar setup will have given way before the frame gives a twitch to doing so. Btw, I knew about welding since taught in the 70's. You and other's who like the OP's bar, fine. The black paint does look goo. Bottom line is it's not on my truck, and that's all that matters on this end. Us guys when stationed in CA were all over those mountains so I know a little about what bars can and cannot do when 4 wheeling across the mountains rocky areas.

Your right about the 1/4" brace, and that is a good point brought to attention.


Man what is your deal? Why do you go out of your way to post a bunch of non sense? Nobody cares.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Not sure exactly what you were experimenting with in the 70 s but it wasnt metal properties if u seriously think the wall of the frame will take more torsional force than 1/4" steel.
But from some other posts id say ur just being an a$$.
 

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Here are some pictures I grabbed of the mounting. I hope this helps.

Question: can you please tell me how much of a drop from the top of the door sill with the door open, to the top of the upper bar? I emailed Rocky Road and they said that the upper bar is suitable as a step, but I cannot tell from their or your pictures what that measurement is.
 

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Due to the long wheel base of the truck I wanted to get some protection for the sides. So I worked with Rocky Road Outfitters to create a side of rock rails for the truck. Of course I am not planning on rock crawling or anything like that. But it has been my experience in the past, you never know what you are going to run into off road. Scratching or banging a rail is better than your rocker panels. I am also hoping they help protect from rock chips since these tires seems to like to throw rocks. They dont stick out much, but with the door open you can step on them. Any ways, I will share the pictures I have thus far and try to answer any questions I can.

Also to note, I have no affiliation with Rocky Road Outfitters. I only reached out to them and worked with them to help bring some more products to the market for our trucks.

Anyways, I guess let me know what you all think.
I think Your rails are the start of a good idea. They look good and will offer some protection for your rockers. They don’t look very functional as a step but I could be wrong.


I am lazy and just bought some NFabs. These are straight up steps but will offer similar protection against trail debris bouncing up and smacking my rockers. Are they they rock sliders, hardly. I am Florida, I don’t rock crawl. They worse I will get is a tree limb bouncing up and smacking my rockers (happened on my first Titan and dented the **** out my rocker panel). They serve me well for getting in and out and that is why bought these
 

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just bought some NFabs.
These were my first choice, and I reached out to NFAB asking if they were going to offer these exact steps in stainless steel... because Northeast Ohio's salted roads = the graveyard for good looking side steps.

But the functionality of protecting my doors in grocery parking lots... well... I will fight the rust when I eventually order these Rocky Road beauties.
 

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These were my first choice, and I reached out to NFAB asking if they were going to offer these exact steps in stainless steel... because Northeast Ohio's salted roads = the graveyard for good looking side steps.

But the functionality of protecting my doors in grocery parking lots... well... I will fight the rust when I eventually order these Rocky Road beauties.
I don’t need to worry much about corrosion. These steps have a lifetime warranty and are powder coated, much better that paint.

The tubes are opened at each end. Once the powder coat starts looking bad I will cap off one end and flush the inside with OSPHOS and cap the other end off. Once capped and cleaned up I will will bed liner them. That might be years down the road or never.
 

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Sorry to resurrect a thread that got a little off track, but I am looking into getting some sliders and these look like a great option. I was planning on going with white knuckle’s but the cost is a problem for me. How have these worked out for you? Have they taken any hits and if so did they hold up? How about mounting, did any additional holes need to be drilled?
 
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